| ~~ Page Three ~~ David's Hybridizing Methods: I do not remove the anthers of a seed parent when I'm pollinating unless there is a pest problem, self-pollinations are very rare with African Violets. I use a petal from a flower to apply the pollen. I hold the petal in a pair a surgical clamps so that it doesn't fall. It is a very effective method of picking up even small amounts of pollen and getting them to the stigma without doing any damage to it. I usually pollinate as many blossoms on the same plant as possible. Some plants are very easy to get to set, others are surprisingly difficult. The more you pollinate the better your odds. Also, the more pods that set on a plant, the better they all seem to do in my experience. Blossoms With Veining I leave the pods on the plant until they are dry and hard. If pods dry in less than four months, odds are that the seed will not be viable. I'll still plant whatever comes out of the pod if it dries in less than four months, though, as I've had a few pods produce viable seed in as little as three months there's no harm in trying. Some seed pods will have hundreds of seeds -- they just keep pouring out -- and others will have none at all. I've had several crosses where only one single seedling sprouted out of three or four seedpods.
 If I have a plant that looks promising and it is an intermediate, I will often pollinate the first bloom the plant ever had. You can always throw it out later if you change your mind, but when you're looking at upwards of a year per generation, any time savings you can find have to be taken advantage of. I keep about one in twenty five plants as intermediates (plants that aren't final products, but that do have some or most of the traits that I'm looking for), and something around one in fifty to one in a hundred are keepers. LOTS of crosses are complete duds -- no keepers in the entire lot.  Right now, I'm working on a batch of new wasps that are intermediates. Most of them are some type of fantasy wasp. For some reason I haven't gotten one yet with a really pretty flower AND nice foliage, just one or the other. The next generation, which I'm now growing out should have some potential keepers. Same story with the reds and yellows -- lots of hopeful seedlings to evaluate this summer. Growing Methods and Pests: As far as growing methods go, I'm still trying new things to find what works better than my current set-up, but the system right now is a pretty basic potting mix (1 part each peat moss, perlite and vermiculite, a little superphosphate, some dolomite lime to raise the pH). I bottom water every two to three days and grow under flourescent lights. I have one room with a humidifier that stays at about 50% R.H., but the rest of my plants have to tolerate whatever the rest of us in the house do -- usually something in the range of 25-35% R.H. The temperature varies quite a bit in Southern California from Winter to Summer. In the winter the temperature ranges from about 60F at night up to about 75F during the day, but in the summer we're lucky to fall to 70F at night, and often hit 90F during the day on the light stands. The plants get quite a stress test. When it comes to pests, thrips have been my only real problem, and they are more of a recurring nuisance than a disaster. I can eradicate them for periods of time, but the little critters always seem to find a way in, and then the whole process starts again. Knock on wood, no mites yet or soil mealies or anything like that. My cat has done more damage than any other pest, now that I come to think of it... (Update – unfortunately David is now dealing with mites in his collection for the first time– stay tuned for more info on the outcome of his current treatment with NEEM.) A Few Favorites and Some Advice: Of the wasps that I've seen or grown, Celery has to be near the top of my list of favorites -- it is such an unusual plant. The foliage is wild and unpredictable, and the wasps, when they decide to bless you with their presence, are great examples of what a wasp flower should look like. I have a few older violets that I plan on keeping for as long as I'm growing – Celery, of course, is at the top of the list, then a couple of non-wasps -- Nancy Leigh and Elizabethan Ruffle (a great longifolia plant). I think that everyone should make an effort to grow one of the heirloom violets in order to help preserve some of the great older hybrids. I'd also highly recommend that everybody have one of their very own hybrids in their collection -- a plant that they know is unique in the world and their own creation. Beyond that, there are so many great violets out there it's hard to make a single recommendation. I don't really have a favorite hybridizer -- there are a lot of really great hybridizers out there and I probably have one or two favorite plants from most of them. For those beginning with violets, first and foremost, beware of the potential for a violet invasion! It's amazing how quickly one plant becomes ten and ten become a hundred. You don't HAVE to propagate every leaf that you remove! Beyond that, just have fun, try new things, don't be afraid of doing the wrong thing (they'll take a beating and still forgive you!). And by all means, pick some parents and try crossing them -- growing African Violets from seeds that you have crossed is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have in the hobby. The Violet Lab on Ebay: Ebay has been a really fun way to share new plants. It helps identify which plants are exciting to other growers, and also (and importantly...) helps to defray some of the cost of my habit! Plants from the Violet Lab have been very popular on Ebay and we look forward to seeing more of David’s unusual varieties for sale once the mite crisis is over.  David, we would like to thank you for taking the time to tell us about your unique hybrids. We look forward to hearing more in the future. -- The Violet Voice |