Rockies North:
Mt. Robson Provincial Park
ßThis is the view most people get of 12,972ft Mt. Robson - if they are lucky. This cloud magnet is famous for being the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and for having truely horrid weather. Everest expiditions train here, even the park video that you must sit through prior to getting a permit (one that features a hiker with an 80's style ghetto blaster tied to his pack) is filmed in the rain. And yet people come from all over the world to hike here, it is in fact the most popular backpacking trip in the Rockies. There are a limited number of permits available however a majority, 80% are on a first come/first serve basis. We were here at 8:00 am on a rare sunny weekend and had our choice of camping sites.
It's twelves miles just to Berg Lake (upper right) so day hiking isn't an option. However getting to Berg Lake in a day is quite reasonable, the first four miles to Kinney Lake (above) are on a broad multi-use trail. Bikes are allowed and having used them ourselves it is highly recommended, especially for the return journey. Just past the camping area are a bike rack and a split in the trail. The right fork is signed ‘main trail’ but it needlessly gains elevation, a better option is to take the one with the horse logo, it crosses a river delta on a few small bridges then rejoins the main trail. The trail climbs steeply for about a mile before leveling off, then at seven miles from the trailhead you cross the river on a swing bridge and enter Valley of a Thousand Falls. We didn't see quite that many on our trip which I guess is one of the trade offs for going on a sunny day. Regardless of the weather the next two miles are sure to delight any waterfalls lover. The first of the real mighty cascades appears just past Whitehorne camp. As you cross a fixed bridge you will see a rather large waterfall to your right. This is only a small fraction of White Falls, climb a few steep switchbacks and look for an unsigned yet obvious side trail for a more comprehensive view. Back on the main trail it climbs steadily for another mile then opens up to reveal a canyon with a deep groove carved into it courtesy of the Falls of the Pool. A fenced viewing platform allows you to safely gaze into the depths of the chasm and perhaps catch a glimpse of a rainbow. Have a good rest here because the next mile is sure to take your breath away. Soon the trees give way and you are treated to your first unobstructed views of Mt. Robson and the Emperor Falls, (left) the biggest waterfall of them all. If you are overheated from nine miles of hiking, head down a short side trail and soak it all in.
The hiking from here on out is pure joy. Soon after parting ways with the Emporer you climb into a hanging valley with postcard worthy views and flower shop quality blossoms. There is a wonderful campsite here, right next to an icy blue river that just implores you to spend the night, but press on because it gets even better. The valley opens up, the river becomes braided, the Mist Glacier appears and Mt. Robson looms larger with every step (right). The trail here is completely level having been painstakingly carved out of a talus field. Then, about a mile from Emporer Falls you pass the terminal moraine of the Mist Glacier and reach the shores of Berg Lake.
There is a designated camping area here with about a half a dozen sites and a trail junction. Your choices here are to keep going straight along the shores of neon green Berg Lake to the shelter or to turn left and climb up to the toe of the Hargreaves Glacier. One advantage of taking this high route to Robson Pass is that you can see Berg Lake in its entirety along with Mt. Robson & the Mist Glacier (left). Berg Lake is quite large and it takes a full hour of hiking along its shore to reach the main camping area with the Shelter. There are about two dozen sites available here some were right on the trail but others were up in the trees and offered more privacy. You can't sleep in the shelter however there are four picnic tables inside so you eat without being bothered by flying insects. There is also a wood burning stove and lockers where you can safely store your food. Outside there are bear proof metal lockers, a sink to dump grey water and tap with fresh water. You will also find friendly marmots with no fear of humans. Just past the shelter is Toboggan Creek and on the far side of this watercourse you will find more campsites as well as the far end of the high trail from Hargreaves Glacier. Even if you don't do the entire traverse it's worth it to hike part way up this trail to Toboggan Falls. The falls themselves are interesting in that they are actually a series of rapids that have carved out twisted bobsled like tracks. However the real treat from this vantage point is the Berg Glacier, the higher you go the more you see of this massive tongue of ice and as an added bonus you will see richer colour in Berg Lake.
For many people Berg Lake is the final destination, as worthy as that may seem more treasures await those who wish to keep on exploring. At the far end of the lake is Rearguard Camp and an important trail junction. The main trail goes north over Robson Pass to Adolphus Lake and eventually into Jasper National Park. However a short side trail (less than three miles), curls around the backside of Mt. Robson and reveals the immense Robson Glacier (right). At the start of the trail is a sign marking the 1911 terminus of the glacier. It has receded considerably since then, however what's left over is still over a mile long. The trail climbs steeply until it crests the glaciers lateral moraine, then eases as it coasts along the top of the moraine. Eventually you reach a small waterfall where the trail turns sharply and climbs into a sprawling meadow. The place is teeming with life, hordes of flowers & butterflies, scores of marmots and in the spring, Caribou. Hikers are forbidden from visiting this area before July so that the caribou are not disturbed while calving. The trail wanders the length of the meadow then climbs to Snowbird Pass (below) where you can look down upon the endless expanse of the reef icefield. The trail ends here although the summits on both sides of the pass are doable as scrambles if you wanted to explore further. When it's time to turn around Mt. Robson and its mightiest glacier completely fill the frame making this is one of the few hikes where the return journey is even more pleasant than the approach.
Q
