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Lake Tahoe March 2002

In all honesty Lake Tahoe was never on our ‘to do’ list.  A 9/11 inspired airline bankruptcy scuttled our Hawaiian ‘Honeymoon’ (we had booked camping permits for Kauai a year in advance) and we had to scramble to find an alternative.  We had considered staying in BC and doing a skiing vacation but the cost was way too high.  That meant we would have to camp somewhere, in March, and that left very few options.  With an eye to photography we chose Death Valley National Park.  It gets a little toasty there in the summer but is an ideal camping temperature in March.  Looking around for other photo opportunities we couldn’t pass up the famed tufas of Mono Lake, a few hours drive north of the park.  With our plans starting to take shape we looked at airline tickets.  Reno was the most sensible location, which put us near Lake Tahoe.  Being avid skiers the thought of all those famous resorts so close and in season was too much.  We couldn’t afford a weeklong package but perhaps we could spring for a couple of nights – and that’s what we did.

Well we didn’t get off to a good start. Travel delays, gear confiscated by customs, gear left behind at customs and best of all when we finally reached Reno we were missing some of our luggage. We spent the first night camping near Kirkwood at Grover Hot Springs State Park (one of the few open all year) and all that gear would have come in handy. Fortunately the pool was open late so at least we got to have a warm soak before crawling into our frigid tent

Kirkwood, South Lake Tahoe
Primary Lifts:10 chairs (two quads, a double and 7 triples) all but one are fixed lifts, only three reach the top of the ridge
Terrain: 2300 acres with a vertical drop of 2000ft  
Comments: Different than the other resorts we visited in the area as it doesn't have a big village or any non-skiing related attractions.  The lack of high speed lifts would be a problem on a rotten weather day but luckily we had excellent conditions 

We awoke to fresh snow, which, the way our luck was going we were afraid our little rental couldn’t make it to the hill. Fortunately we got by without chains and enjoyed a little breakfast in the parking lot while being serenaded by the thunder of (controlled) avalanches. Fresh powder and mostly sunny skies made for an excellent day on the slopes.

We had scoured the Internet for the best ski & stay package in Lake Tahoe and the result was the  Fantasy Inn.  A unique hotel, it has its own wedding chapel and features many 'theme' rooms.  We weren't looking for luxury accomodations but the price was right and the fact that every room included a jacuzzi didn't hurt.  Guests are restricted to couples. Highly recommended.

  Squaw Valley, Tahoe City
Primary Lifts: 25 chairs! (7 express, plus a tram, gondola & a half dozen other lifts)
Terrain: 4000 acres with a vertical drop of 2850ft 
Comments: Lots of fast lifts and the most comprehensive grooming we have ever seen.  Resort also features a lot of on hill extras like an ice rink, swimming pool, olympic museum and more.  Our favourite was the timed slalom course, relatively inexpensive  & loads of fun.
    

Heavenly, South Lake Tahoe
Primary Lifts: 19 chairs (6 express, plus Tram, Gondola & eight other lifts)
Terrain: 4800 acres with a vertical drop of 3500ft   
Comments: Heavenly is the most scenic ski resort we have ever visited (see photo at top of page).  However you get the sense that the resort created because of its great location (right on the lake next to all the casinos) rather than its great terrain. Heavenly is massive but the runs themselves are somewhat disjointed so expect to do some traversing to get from place to place.
 
From here on out it was primarily a camping trip although we did manage to squeeze in a little skiing at near the end. On our last day in Death Valley National Park we took a pair of skies up the sand dunes near Stovepipe wells. Climbing up the dunes in ski boots was hard work but it was fun and it didn’t take long for every nook and cranny on our bodies to fill with sand. Well nothing beats a hut tub after a rough day of sand skiing however due to budget constraints we had to settle for the kind provided by Mother Nature. Just outside Mammoth Lakes is the Hot Creek Geothermal Site. Hot water bubbles up into a cool mountain stream and due to the inconsistency of the bubbles you get alternative waves of hot & cool water – very nice. We looked for camping in the area but all the sites were closed (there was a little snow on the ground – Egads!) so we ended up putting our tent down right next to the highway. At that point we had the time, we had the skies, and we were at the doorstep of a world class ski resort. What we didn’t have was the money – I guess that’s why they invented credit….
 
Mammoth Mountain, Mammoth Lakes
Primary Lifts: 22 chairs (10 express, plus gondola and four other lifts)
Terrain: 3500 acres with a vertial drop of 3100ft. 
Comments: Free parking filled up immediately, most people seem to use the shuttle & locker their equipment at the resort.  Sunny skies and no new snow meant slushy conditions, best to follow the sun and ski the mountain left to right. 
 
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