 | This is the torch I use for working with any wire and most light weight silver. I also use it for repairing Gold chains. I bought it at Harbor Freight several years ago and it was about half the cost of the Blazer. |  | These are the tools I used to make the head pins. There is a Charcoal block, a Heat resistant tile, Self-Pickeling Flux, and my Torch You will see a siringe to squirt my Flux on my metal. Self Pickeling Flux keeps your metal clean and you don't have to use a Pickel Pot when you are done heating your metal. |  | These are 3 finished Head pins. | Ok, now you probably want to know how I wound up with my finished pins. So, here's how it's done. I cut 3 pieces of 22ga. S.S. wire approx. 2 1/2" long. I used the smallest area of my round nose pliers to bend the end over about a half curl. Then I used my flat nose pliers to squeeze it tight. This way you will get a more consistant bead on the end. I tried the Charcoal block, and yes it worked, but I was not happy with the results. So I took my pins to the white tile. Squirted the wire with Flux, turned my torch up to high, and slowly moved up on the wire from the right. This way, you are slowly heating the wire, it will round toward the stem and make a better ball - also giving you more control over the size of the ball. The more metal you melt, the bigger the ball. When the head of the pin is the size you want it ( and if you will bend it first, you will have better consistancy, more pins with like heads) TAKE THE FIRE AWAY FROM THE WIRE. Your wire is still hot and if you pull the wire away from the flame, you run the risk of pulling the head off the pin - thereby having to start all over. Dip your pin in cool water, wash with Dawn Dish Soap, and polish. |