Cultivation and Processing
Growing & Harvesting
The cacao bean grows in large pods on the cacao tree, an evergreen which thrives in tropical areas. It is traditional for the cacao tree to be grown under the protection of taller shade-creating trees, the conditions resembling a jungle habitat. The cacao pods, which develop into shades of red, green, purple or yellow when ripe, measure about 8 inches long and contain between 20 to 40 beans that are embedded in a soft white pulp (McFadden & France 33).
When the pod is ripe, it is removed from the tree by cutting the stalks with a cutlass or curved knife. Cutting must be done with care so as to not damage the cauliflory, which will produce the next season's pods. In some countries, harvesting takes place all year round although most heavily from May to December (McFadden & France 33)
Fermenting & Drying
The pods are then split, the beans scooped out and formed into a conical heap and arranged over a mat of banana leaves. The leaves are folded over and the beans are allowed to ferment for up to 6 days. Bacteria and yeast already present in the air, multiple on the sugary pulp surrounding the beans, causing it to decompose to an acidic juice. The process raises the temperature which alters the internal composition of the bean. The colour changes from purple to chocolate brown and the familiar cacao smell emerges. The beans are then spread out on bamboo mats or wooden drying floors. During the 10 or 20 days needed for drying, the beans are regularly turned
Modern Manufacturing
 | Cleaning, Grading & Roasting When the beans arrive at the chocolate factory, they have been fermented and dried, but are still raw. The beans are given a preliminary cleaning and are then sent to storage hoppers where they are inspected, cleaned and graded. Like coffee, the beans are roasted to develop flavour and aroma and to enrich colour. |
Roasting dries the husk surrounding the nib or edible inner part of the bean. Different types of beans require different roasting temperatures and it is important to not overroast, lest the flavour of the bean be destroyed. After roasting the beans are cooled as quickly as possible.
Winnowing and Blending
The beans are then passed through husking and winnowing machines, which crack open the roasted beans, blowing the lighter husks away from the heavier pieces of nib. During the blending process, specified quantities of different varieties of cacao nibs are weighed and transferred to a cylindrical blender before being fed into grinding machines. In the same way that a winemaker blends his grapes, the chocolatier needs to determine the proportions of strong and mild cacao beans to produce the perfect blend.
Grinding
Once in the grinding mill, the nibs pass through a series of rollers, resulting in coarse particles that eventually turn into a warm paste. A second grinding is then done and after grinding, the cacao mass or liquor flows out of the machine into shallow metal containers. At this stage, further treatment of the liquor depends on the desired end product. For cocoa powder, the next step is the extraction of a large proportion of the cacao butter which is pressed out of the liquor and the residue formed into cakes.
The Making of Eating Chocolate
If eating chocolate is the desired end product, then the roasted and ground nibs are mixed with pulverized sugar and enriched with cacao butter. The mixture then goes to the melangeur, a round machine with a horizontal rotating base on which run heavy rollers. After mixing, the chocolate paste resembles kneaded dough. If manufacturing milk chocolate, powdered milk or evaporated sweetened milk is added to the rest of the ingredients in the mixer.
Refining and Conching
The chocolate paste is then ground between a series of rollers, each succeeding roller rotating faster than the previous one. The conching machine, or conch, was invented by Rodolfe Lindt in 1880. They are equipped with heavy rollers that plow back and forth through the chocolate mass anywhere from a few hours to several days in order to agitate the liquid chocolate. Under regulated speeds, these rollers can produce different degrees of agitation and aeration in developing and modifying the chocolate flavors. During this stage, the flavour of the chocolate is developed and mellowed, any residual bitterness is removed, and the texture becomes smooth. During conching various flavours are added such as vanilla, cloves or cinnamon.
Tempering, Moulding and Enrobing
Once conching is completed, it is fed into tempering kettles, where it is stirred and cooled. Since cacao butter contains various types of fat, all with different melting and setting points, care must be taken. Tempering causes rapid cooling resulting in a more even distribution of the various fats. After tempering the chocolate is pumped into moulding machines (if made into bars) and enrobing machines (if used as coating).
Enrobing is a process of coating confectionary centres. Liquid chocolate of a slightly thin consistency is pumped into the enrobing machine where it is agitated once more and maintained at a temperature just high enough to keep it liquid. The centres have to be warm to enter the coating stage but not too warm to lose their shape.
Chocolate FYI
Tasting
It is best to taste chocolate on an empty stomach. If your chocolate is correctly stored, you will need to allow an hour or so for it to reach the recommended temperature of 19-25 C
Plain Chocolate: Allow the chocolate to sit in your mouth for a few moments to release its primary flavours and aromas. Chew it 5 to 10 times to release the secondary aromas. Let it rest against the roof of your mouth
Filled Chocolate: Allow the chocolate to sit in your mouth for a few moments to release its primary flavours and aromas. Chew it 3 to 5 times to mix the chocolate and filling. Let the mixture melt slowly in your mouth
Storage
Chocolate is susceptible to temperature, external odors and flavorings, air and light, moisture, and time. The fat and sugar it contains will absorb surrounding odors. Chocolate should be stored in a dry, odor-free place in its original wrapping or wrapped in foil with good air circulation. Good storage practices help avoid decay, undesired features like fatbloom and sugarbloom, and help extend shelf life. Avoid storing chocolate in the refrigerator. Milk and white chocolates will keep this way for about a year. The darker varieties will keep for several years. Sometimes chocolate will develop white or gray "clouds" or "blooms" on its surface. The chocolate is fine to use and only indicates that the cocoa butter has separated.
If storing raw chocolate store it in a cool, dry place away from light and air. Chocolate will oxidize more quickly and deteriorate in taste when exposed to light and air. Therefore, it is very important to protect the chocolate by storing it in closed packaging. Dark and milk chocolate naturally contain anti-oxidents. White chocolate does not contain these substances and is more sensitive towards oxidation.
The ideal temperature for storing chocolate is between 54°F and 68°F (12° and 20°C). At higher temperatures, the chocolate will soften and will lose its gloss. Lower storage temperatures are less risky. Care should be taken to bring cold products to room temperature to avoid condensation and sugarbloom. Fluctuating temperatures should also be avoided as they will accelerate the appearance of fatbloom. Chocolate should be protected against humidity and stored where the maximum relative humidity is 70%
Melting Chocolate
Chocolate melts best at temperatures between 104°F and 113°F (40° and 45°C). Never melt chocolate directly over a heat source. Use indirect heat such as a hot water bath so that the chocolate reaches a uniform temperature of 104°F to 113°F. This is the perfect temperature to begin tempering or recrystallization
Chocolate Temperatures
The ideal temperature of the workshop should be approximately 68°F (20°C). The temperature of the candies and fillings to be coated should be as close as possible to the temperature of the coating chocolate. If the temperature of the candies or filling varies too much from that of the chocolate, the crystallization of the cocoa butter will be adversely affected. This will result in a product that is dull and is less resistant to heat. The temperature of the molds should be as close as possible to that of the workshop without being less, approximately 68°F (20°C). If necessary, the molds can be warmed slightly. Take care that the temperature of the molds does not exceed that of the tempered chocolate. Using molds that are at the proper temperature will result in the best possible gloss for the finished product.
Tabliering (Tempering By Hand)
Melt the chocolate over a hot water bath until it reaches a temperature between 88°F and 90°F (31° to 34°C). Melt white and milk chocolate to a temperature approximately 2°F less. On a cold table or marble surface: Pour 2/3 of the melted chocolate onto the cold table. Spread out the chocolate mass and work with a spatula until the temperature of the chocolate is approximately 81°F (27°C). Add the tempered chocolate to the non-tempered chocolate and mix thoroughly until the mass in the bowl has a completely uniform.
