NOTES:
For setting your car up for handling etc. Before going on with modifications, check out your local laws referring to modification and engineering specifications in your area.
First make sure the every combination of the inner and outer tie rod set on each side of the car matches in length, this keeps the Ackermann turning circle the same for turning in corners. Then check the track arm inner pivots and ball joints. Both tie rods and track arm joints are available new through Enford and similar companies (see links). The drag link can be reconditioned or repaired along the lines of the article on this site. The idler arm can also be rebushed and in New Zealand here, a model of Ford Falcon has a Nolathane kit that does the job.
Suspension bushes and spring eye bushes etc should be sound and after market bushes are available (see links). Do make sure the suspension at both ends of the car are sound eg: not leaking etc, and that the body is structurally sound. I also recommend a lower profile performance tyre on after market alloy rims or similar, as they offer better off set, lighter unsprung weight and better brake cooling
be sure to check out the local laws in your area considering wheel offset and size. After any suspension work etc, a wheel alignment should be done at your nearest tyre shop. I suggest you see a shop that sets up Rally and other modified cars, as standard wheel alignment specs can often be improved. The modifications in the left sidebar have all been tested under hard usage over the last 10 years on my V8 powered 1964 Ford Zephyr, which can be found at
http://groups.msn.com/GaleforceZephyrs/mymklllv8.msnw
Disclaimer: The advice and guidelines given are given in good faith and the owners and managers of this site can take no responsibility for injuries sustained while carrying out the described tasks and procedures or any consequences arising.
