Uromastyx
Uromastyx ssp
Enclosure: These lizards should be held in an enclosure that's at least 30 gallons. Any smaller than this and it is impossible to create the proper heat gradient to simulate a uromastyx's natural environment. 33 gallons long is a good size for a juvenile uro, but when they reach adult size 55 gallons or more is ideal.
Substrate: Because uromastyxes tend to burrow, washed or kiln dried play sand makes a good substrate and is the most economical. Many people use alfalfa pellets or bird seed (wild or finch) because it is not dusty. Alfalfa pellets may grow mold and bird seed needs to be frozen or microwaved to kill any larvae that may be present. Whichever substrate you choose is fine, but must be changed completely every few months and sifted through for waste daily.
When first acquiring a uromastyx, whether it is captive bred or wild bred, it is always wise to keep him on butcher's paper or paper towel until you have him checked by a vet for parasites. It is highly likely that your wild cought uromastyx has a variety of parasites that may be treated with proper medications.
Lighting: Proper UVB lighting is essential to the well being of any lizard. A florescent UVB light is a must for enclosures that do not have access to direct sunlight because, among other problems, lizards are prone to metabolic bone disease. This is also obtainable through natural sunlight in an outdoor enclosure during the warmer summer months. Repti-Sun 5.0 by Zoo Med is ideal, but the less costly, though debatable solution is a GE Sunshine bulb (Chroma 50). The UVB light must be held no more than 18 inches away from the basking area and must be at least 50% of the length of your enclosure. It is also important that there is nothing between the reptile and the light source (i.e: glass.)During the spring uromastyx breeders place black lights in their enclosures, most popular is the Sylvania 350 Magnum BL bulb, because it is said that they incease breeding activity. Lighting should be left on for 12 hours during the summer and 8 hours during the winter to mimic seasonal changes.
Heating: Like desert temperatures, your uromastyx's temperatures must be high during the day and cool to room temperature at night. There also has to be a "cool" side and a "hot" side during the day with ambient temperatures ranging from 80-95 degree F and basking temperatures exceeding 120 degree F. You can create this heat gradient by placing an incandescent basking light (wattage depends on the size/height of enclosure) or ceraminc heating element on one side of the cage and monitor it with digital thermometers. Night time temperatures should go down to about 70 degrees F. Some people with larger enclosures use under tank heaters but it is not otherwise needed and may cause dehydration. You should NOT use heat rocks because they are unsafe and cause many deaths in reptiles.
Furniture: Your uromastyx's home should include a hide, basking area and a food bowl. The hide is used to escape the hot temperatures and provide a sense of security. The hide is usually placed on the cooler side but newly acquired uros should have access to a hide on the hot side so he can keep his body temperature elevated and feel secure. Rocks can be placed under the heating elements because they retain heat well, but must sit directly on the bottom of the enclosure because uromastyxs have a tendancy to burrow and they may get crushed. If you have a pile of rocks make sure they are glued together with a non-toxic adhesive. Uros also have a tendacy to scatter their food everywhere so it's a good idea to place the food bowl ontop of the hide on the cool side.
Regarding Water: To keep humidity levels low (approx 20-40% humidity during the day which will naturally go up at night when the lights are off), so that your uromastyx will not develop respiratory infections, do not supply a bowl of water at all times. If your uromastyx is dehydrated you can bathe him for 15-20 minutes a few times a week, under supervision of course. This also helps bowel movements as you can massage his stomach. It's a good idea to bathe a newly acquired uromastyx, but he sure to thoroughly dry him because moisture can get trapped between the spines in his tail and cause it to rott. Some people spray water on the sides of their enclosure in the morning to simulate morning dew, but for the most part he will get his moisture from the freshly washed greens you will provide for him.
Food: Uromastyxs are, for the most part, vegetarians. Mustard, collard, and dandelion greens make up a large portion of their diet. Some parsely, alfalfa, lentils, tofu, non-toxic flowers , green beans, sweet potatoes, snow peas, and finch seeds are good also, as it important to provide a large variety of foods for your uromastyx. Cabbages, broccoli and spinach should be fed at a minimal. You can offer crickets and superworms on occasion, but it's important not to feed them animal protein often as it can lead to kidney faliure. T-Rex commercial iguana foods can be mixed in with this salad along with a calcium supplement a few times a week.
