Belfast Guide
Waterfront Hall Belfast
latest update February 2008
Belfast is a city being reborn. It is a classic northern port city that has had its function as capital of Northern Ireland restored with the Northern Ireland Assembly meeting at Stormont. The 'troubles' hung like a cloud over it from the late 1960's till the mid 1990's but today it presents a confident face with a strong cultural life exemplified by the Waterfront Concert Hall. There is plenty to see during the day and a rich and varied night life to enjoy. Local resourcefulness has turned the 'troubles' into tourism with tours of the murals of West Belfast. The city was traditionally a Unionist stronghold but the population is now split about 50/50 between Unionists and Nationalists. The club scene is refreshingly non sectarian and a real sign of hope for the future.
Transport
These days Larne, 30 km north of the city, is less important as a passenger ferry port. Conventional boats still dock there but most ferries come directly into Belfast to Donegall Quay. George Best Belfast City Airport, Airport Road, 028 9093 9093 5km north east of city centre is becoming ever more popular. Belfast International Airport, 028 9448 4848 is 30km west of the city at Aldergrove. Belfast Central Station has trains to all destinations. Botanic Station is the nearest to hostels in the University Area. The Laganside Bus Centre, Oxford Street, 028 9066 6630 serves destinations in County Antrim, north Down and Cookstown. All other Services including long distance from Europa Bus Centre, Glengall Street. 028 9066 6630. There is a good local bus service and good regional bus network operated by Ulsterbus.
Information
The Belfast Welcomes Centre, 47 Donegall Place, 028 9024 6609 gives out information on the whole of Northern Ireland. Internet Cafe on premises. The List free magazine has details of music events for Northern Ireland with a focus on Belfast. Adman Publishing has free downloads (pdf files) of The Belfast Beat entertainments magazine and Gael Sports Ulster Gaelic sports magazine.. See also www.wheretotonight.com .
City Centre
Central Belfast is a bustling energetic grid of streets with excellent shopping. It is centred on Donegall Square which is dominated by Belfast City Hall where the City Council, now about half Unionist and half Nationalist meets. The Linen Hall Library faces the City Hall and houses over a quarter of a million books with many on Irish subjects. The Grand Opera House, Great Victoria Street is a monument to Victorian design. St Anne's Cathedral is an excellent early 20th century Neo Romanesque church. St Malachy's Catholic Church on Alfred Street is a beautiful example of early gothic revival with an exquisite plasterwork ceiling. The Ulster Hall Bedford Street is undergoing refurbishment, open again in 2009.
Docklands/Laganside
Although the cranes of the Harland and Woolf shipyard dominate the old dockland area north of the city centre has been in decline since the Second World War. In the last 10 years there has been a concerted effort to regenerate the area. The centrepiece is the impressive circular Waterfront Hall. A network of paths and parks is being developed along the cleaned up river Lagan and in 2001 The Odyssey Complex opened with a discovery centre W5, an IMAX cinema, and a 10 000 seat arena
Golden Mile/University Area
This area came into its own during the troubles when the centre of town was off limits to traffic at night. A new nightlife area grew up along the main road south - called the Goldren Mile - to add vitality to this trim victorian suburb. Queen's University is a classic victorian redbrick pile. Queen's Film Theatre 7 University Square Mews has 2 screens of arthouse movies. The fine Botanic Gardens, Stranmillis Road have a large Palm House and Tropical Ravine. They are also home to the Ulster Museum which covers Political and Natural History, Science, Industry and Art in one building. Crescent Arts Centre 028 9024 2338 2-4 University road has a wide range of music. Lyric Theatre 028 9038 1081, 55 Ridgeway Street includes Irish plays. Hang with the students at the Botanic Inn or listen to music at the relaxed Empire.
West Belfast
The area is separated from the town centre by the moat like Westlink motorway. Here the Catholic Falls and Protestant Shankhill roads run parallel from the city centre and the area has been the focus of much community rivalry. A visit to the city would not be complete without a tour around the Murals painted by both sides. You can make your own way around or use Taxis operated by both communities. Loyalist Taxis from Peter's Hill, Republican Taxis from Castle Street. Both to the north of the city centre. You can also get picked up from hostels, look for information on their notice boards. Culturlann MacAdam O'Fiaich, 216 Falls Road is a cultural centre for irish speakers with bookshop, cafe, school and theatre. The lauguage has growing popularity in the city. Milltown Cemetery is where Republicans bury their dead including official IRA ones. The Shankhill area has no such obvious central site but a few km out on the Glencairn Road is Fernhill House: The People's Museum, a recreation of a 1930's Shankhill house.
Food
If you want a good low coast meal in town Pubs are a good option. Cafe Renoir, 5 Queens Street is another good bet. Why not try the cafe at Culturlann MacAdam O'Fiaich, 216 Falls Road while seeing the murals. Little India, 53 Dublin Road has vegetarian curries. Join the student crowd at Maggie May's, 50 Botanic Avenue and Bookfinders Cafe, 47 University Road.
Pubs and Clubs
There are traditional bars in the city centre with wine bars and DJ bars nearer the University campus. Crown Liquor Saloon, 46 Great Victoria Street, marvelous victorian bar. Maddens, 74 Smithfield Street, has trad music most nights. Rotterdam, 54 Pilot Street, offers quality live music (folk to rock) in cramped atmospheric conditions,The John Hewitt, 51 Donegall Street is a recent addition of the old school with Trad music several nights a week. Mc Hugh's , 29-31 Queen's Square, is a typical New Belfast place. The oldest building in the city is now a bar/restaurant with live music from rock to trad. Eglantine Inn, 32 Malone Road, is a pupular student bar with music, quiz nights and TV for sports. Empire Music Hall, 42 Botanic Avenue, is a cross between pub and club with three floors of bars, music, comedy and dancing. If your student days are over you may still enjoy the 60's/70's discos at the Beaten Docket, 48 Great Victoria Street.
Milk, Tomb Street, the most popular club in town, monday night is gay night.. Katy Daly's, 17 Ormeau Street, mixes live bands with club nights. The Limelight, 19 Ormeau Road caters for anyone outide the house/RnB mainstream. With sounds from Hip Hop to Britpop. Last night an arachnoid saved my life. 8 legged groove machines should get down to The Fly, 5-6 Lower Crescent, three floors of spider themed mayhem.
Festivals
As in other Irish Cities St Patrick's Day 17th March is celebrated. The Cathedral Quarter Arts Festival is a new general arts festival held in early May. Belfast City Summerfest, also during May includes the Lord Mayor's Show and all types of music. Of course the 12 July is the celebration of the Battle of the Boyne with the Orange Order marching. Belfast Folk Festival events take place on weekends throughout the summer - 028 9074 6021. Feile an Phobail is held in the first week of august in West Belfast and bills itself as the largest community festival in Europe. The Belfast Festival at Queen's University in November has all the range of the Edinburgh festival on Irish soil - 028 9066 7687.
Sports
International Rugby and Soccer at Windsor Park 028 9024 4198 off Lisburn Road. Gaelic Football and Hurling at Roger Casement Park 028 9070 5868, Anderstown Road. Belfast Giants ice hockey team at Odyssey Arena (details above).
Outer Belfast
Cave Hill Country Park is 5km north of the city centre. It's several squtre kilometres include 19th century Belfast Castlr, and the fine Belfast Zoo, which has large modern enclosures to housing it's many animals.
8km east of the city centre the massive form of Stormont Castle is a traditional symbol of Unionist power. It is now home to the power sharing Northern Ireland Assembly. The grounds can be visited freely but entry to the building itself requires an invitation from a member of the assembly.