Derry and Tyrone Guide
Cannon on Derry City Wall
latest update February 2008
Apart from Derry City this is the least known part of Northern Ireland. It shouldn't be. From the fabulous inland cliffs on the north Irish coast to the History Park in Gortin Glen it has no shortage of interest for the visitor
Derry City
Derry has changed enormously in the last 15 years. It has always been a handsome town with a fine setting on the River Foyle. But there was no disguising the scars left by the troubles. Now this is a fast growing vibrant small city of about 100 000 people . You cannot avoid the past here, but you can learn from it. Start your visit at the Tower Museum, Union Hall Place, which manages to give an unbiased history of the City. Explore the walled city, you can walk the walls and look down on the Bogside. Once scene of many confrontations betweens Nationalists and British Forces, now only the 'You Are Now Entering Free Derry' mural stands witness to them. St Columns Church of Ireland cathedral is an austere, fortified building. Bookworm, 18-20 Bishop Street Within, this bookshop with radical roots is worth visiting for the view of Ireland you get from books on its shelves.
Transport
The Train Station is on the east bank of the Foyle in Waterside. Trains to Belfast with connection to Dublin. The Bus Station is on the west bank. The Airporter Bus Service runs from Lower Clarenon Street to Belfast International and City Airports. Lough Swilly Buses 028 7126 2017 runs buses into Donegal. Derry City Airport is 12 km out on the A2
Information
The Arts
They flourish here. Millennium Forum, Newmarket street, has Ireland's largest seating capacity. Waterside Theatre 028 7131 4000, the Ebrington Centre, Glendermott Road has concerts and plays. Playhouse Community Arts Centre 028 7126 8027, 5 Artillery Street, has dance, theatre and exhibitions. The Nerve Centre 028 7126 0562 7-8 Magazine Street is the Undertones contribution. Its an arts and multmedia centre with performance area, theatre, bar and cafe.
Pubs and Clubs
The scene here is legendary. Its only possible to list a few places. See if the 12 0'clock Snog is still happening, when any unpaired youths congregate in the middle of town after closing time. Pubs - Peadar O'Donnells has 61 Waterloo Street has Trad sessions every night. Gweedore Bar 59-61 Waterloo Street has live bands nightly. Pub/Clubs - Lava Lounge 113 Strand Road, Fusion , Waterloo Street. Clubs - Cafe Roc, Earth Complex, 1 College Terrace has several venues for different music styles.
East from Derry by the coast
The road out of the city is too busy to be enjoyable and the first 5km is past industrial suburbs, but there are views over Lough Foyle to the Inishowen Peninsula. Limavady is a workaday town. Turn north just before it onto the B69 through pleasant lowland countryside towards the Binevenagh inland cliffs. There are great views from the top of them. Downhill is just a row of houses but the 10 km long beach here is staggeringly good and a fine place for surfing.
The road goes uphill past Mussenden Temple built in the 18th century by the local Anglican bishop to house (a) his library (b) his mistress (c) both. Answers on a postcard please. Let me disagree with many guidebooks: Coleraine is a pleasant town on the banks of the River Bann, especially the riverside. From here turn north to Portstewart, a small traditional seaside resort town, to continue the coastal route round Antrim.
East from Derry towards Belfast
The A6 is a far more pleasant way out of the city than the A2, making its way through rolling countryside. Dungiven used to be a tired looking small town but has perked up considerably. There is good Trad music in the local bars and a 13th century Augstinian Priory to the south of town. The Flaxmill Hostel, 5km north of town off the B192 is worth visiting in its own right as the imaginative rebuilding of a traditional Flax Mill and its workers cottages. Marion makes cloth on a hand loom in the Mill Building. From the town the road rises to the wild Glenshane Pass before sweeping down towards Belfast
South from Derry to Omagh
From Strabane the A5 follows the Strule river south. Sion Mills is a lovely village born of the 18th century linen industry. Newtownstewart has a 14th century castle and a small museum at its tourist office. To the south is the distinctive outline of Bessy Bell hill. Half way to Omagh is the Ulster American Folk Park which shows of the links between Ulster and America through 18th and 19th century emmigration.
Omagh to Gortin and the Sperrins
Omagh itself is a good county town. The most impressive building is the 19th century classical courthouse. Either it or Gortin village makes a good base for Gortin Glen, the historical and forest parks and the Sperrins themselves. The B48 rises slowly up the Glen with its extensive forestry to the The Gortin Glens Forest Park, has a herd of Japanese sika deer.The Ulster History Park has been closed. Gortin itself is a one street village but well situated and with plenty of budget accommodation. Take the B48 north to Plumbridge then turn right up the B47 into the heart of the Sperrins, a gently beautiful range. There is a minor road heading north round each side of their highest point Sawel Mountain.
East side of the counties
This is a mainly lowland area and the main route is on a north-south axis. Historically this is protestant plantation country and the towns reflect that, but the area is now 50/50 protestant/catholic.
On the border with Armagh is the beautiful Blackwater valley where river and canal run side by side. Benburb Valley Heritage Centre, entry £1.50 in an old mill between river and canal is worth visiting. There is also restored Benburb Castle. Dungannon, Cookstown and Magherafelt are all workaday towns. The Tyrone Crystal Factory is just north east of Dungannon. Cookstown should not be visited by agrivated drivers. It's main street's traffic calming as obstacle course is a miracle to behold. Magherafelt is more welcoming. A microcosm of northern Ireland, it is watched over by three church spires (Church of Ireland, Catholic and Presbyterian) and one RUC (Now Northern Ireland Police Service) observation point. The place most worth seeing in the area is little Maghera, A pre plantation town of winding streets. Its remarkable Church is a mixture of 10th, 12th and 17th centuries. Middle House Museum tells the story of the town's textile producing past.
