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Dublin Guide 3: Places
 
Trinity College in Central Dublin
 
latest update March 2008
 
An overview of Central Dublin
 
Three waterways define the centre of Dublin. The Royal Canal rings its north side and the Grand Canal its south. The River Liffey splits this area into north and south halves. The central point in Dublin is generally agreed to be O'Connell Bridge. To the north is O'Connell Street, a wide bouldevard now graced by 'The Spike': a tall shiney steel column that tapers to a point. To its west bargains can be had in the traditional market quarter which also boasts several modern shopping malls. Most of the main central tourist areas are to the south.  Directly south the heart of Georgian Dublin is around Trinity College, Merrion Square and St Stephen's Green and Dublin's most advertised shopping street Grafton Street. To the west between the river and Dame Street is Temple Bar. Dublin's equivalent of London's Covent Garden. Beyond it is the medieval centre of Dublin, much redeveloped by still containing historic churches and Dublin Castle.
 
Sightseeing in Central Dublin
 
Temple Bar is Dublin's Official ahem 'Cultural Centre', avoid the Stag and Hen nighters to visit the best of the area. Look out for 'Cultivate' The Sustainable Living Centre 15 - 19 Essex Street  01 674 5773. Christchurch Cathedral, Christ Church Place. 12th century gothic church (Church of Ireland) with monuments from Anglo-Irish history. St Patricks Cathedral also gothic, 12/13th Century and Church of Ireland. Jonathan Swift was Cathedral Dean from 1713 to 1745. Trinity College, Dublin's oldest University, is a beautiful Georgian building that has stood in for Oxford on occasion in films. Visit the Long Room in the Library to see many historic manuscripts including the Book of Kells produced around 800AD. The National Museum - Museum of Archeology and History  Kildare Street  has the world's best collections of Iron Age metalwork and Celtic artifacts. Its galleries chart Irish history through to the 1916 rising and the birth of an independent Ireland. The National Gallery has a world class collection of European art from the renaissance onwards and a fine Irish collection. You can observe the activity of the Irish Parliament at Leinster House when it is sitting, get tickets at the Kildare Street entrance 01 618 3000. Note (2008) - it is due to be refurbished with Parliament sitting at - The Natural History Museum, Merron Street, 01 677 7444 is a victorian survival and worth visiting as much for the building as the extensive exhibits. South of St Stephen's Green is the lovely Iveagh Gardens, a great place to relax away from city centre bustle. For a little known side of irish life visit the Irish-Jewish Museum 3/4 Woaworth Rd, opened in 1985 by Israeli President Chaim Herzog who was born in Dublin. The Hugh Lane Gallery 22 North Parnell Square 01 222 5550 displays art from French Impressionism onwards with temporary exhibitions by major artists. If you are interested in Irish literature visit the Dublin Writers' Museum 18 North Parnell Square entry. Ceol is a new interactive introduction to Irish Music 01 817 3820 in Smithfield Village, billed as the next Temple Bar. Here you will also find the Old Jameson Distillery where Irish whiskey is lionised. The Guiness Brewery is on most backpackers must do lists, you can visit the Guiness Storehouse, St James' Gate. Entry is steep at €11.50 but does include possibly the best pint of Guinness anywhere. On Military Road the Old Royal Hospital Kilmainham, a considerable classical building, houses the Irish Museum of Modern Art 01 612 9900. See the large exhibition galleries, rooms in the hospital itself and the restored gardens. Nearby Kilmainham Jail 01 453 5984 is now a Museum and shrine to the sacrifies made to achieve Irish independence. Central Park in New York is 337 hectares Phoenix Park which  marks the western end of the centre of Dublin is 700 hectares in size. As well as all this green space it contains many things of interest. There is the small Dublin Zoo 01 677 1325. Aras an Urchtarain is the official residence of the Irish President. There is also the headquarters of the Irish Ordnance Survey. And south of the Phoenix Monument in the centre of the park is the Papal Cross marking where Pope John Paul II said mass for 1.25 million people in 1979.
 
Further out
 
Dublin's three waterways make for fine routes through and out of the city. The Royal Canal towpath makes a good escape route to the countryside by foot and bicycle and is an official long distance path as far as the Shannon. Near it the National Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin are worth visiting and free. Nearby pay respects to the great and good of Ireland at Prospect Cemetery, properly known as Glasnevin Cemetery. The River Liffey winds gently inland before arcing back to the Wicklow Mountains, the Grand Canal cuts a straight path towards the heart of Ireland.
 
Dublin Coast - north side of Dublin Bay
 
Malahide is a seaside town that is becoming a Dublin suburb. It has a fine little marina and the postcard pretty Malahide Castle - the towers are in fact 18th century additions to a 12th century keep.The castle and its extensive garrdens are open, as is Fry Model Railway, a scale model of the entire Irish rail system at O gauge size.  Howth. Surprisingly rugged Howth offers many of the delights of rural Ireland. The Suburban town also has some lower priced B&B's that may be cheaper for couples that hostels in the city centre, which is only 15km away and easily access by DART rail. There is fine coastal scenery around the edge of this almost-island and from the Ben of Howth you can see across Dublin bay to the wicklow mountains. Howth Castle was begun in 1564 and last restored in 1910 by British architect Edwin Lutyens. You can visit the gardens and the National Transport Museum, 01 848 0831, in the grounds. The Lighthouse, Church Street, had trad music several times a week. The coast south runs through the working class suburbs that inspired Roddy Doyle's novels starting with The Commitments. Dollymount Strand (Bull Island) is accessed by one bridge to the mainland and has several miles of beaches used by Dubliners.
 
Dublin Coast - south side of Dublin Bay 
 
From the city centre Pearse Street can be followed as it changes name and passses through Grand Canal Docks, Ringsend and Irishtown, an area that is being steadily redeveloped. Here you will find the Waterways Visitor Centre where you can get the low down on irish canal history. The road finally becomes Strand Road beside Dublin Bay and the coast can be followed all the way to Dun Laoghaire. Slightly inland are the victorian suburbs of Ballsbridge and Sandymount. The home of the liberal middle class 'Dublin 4 set' that led the modernisation of Ireland in the 1980's. Here you will find the massive R.D.S. (Royal Dublin Society) Centre that hosts everything from major trade exhibitions to concerts. Dun Laoghaire is a substantial victorian port and now hip suburb of Dublin. The National Maritime Museum 01 280 0969 is in the former Marinners Church on Haigh Terrace. The modern Pavillion Theatre is near the seafront. Sandycove is 1 km south, there is a Martello Tower that houses the James Joyce Museum, 01 280 9265 and the Forty Foot Pool, a traditional place for Dubliners to take a dip in the sea. Dalkey surveys the sea from cliff tops and is now one of Dublin's most expensive addresses. Archibald's Castle and Goat Castle face each other on Castle Street. See also 9th century St Beneget's Church. From here the road descends to Killiney and Shankhill before Bray (in effect the last Dublin suburb) in County Wicklow.
 
The Dublin Mountains
 
These are the first mountains of the Wicklow range, they can be seen from south central Dublin. They are where Dubliners go to get a breath of fresh air. Take their example. There are fine views down over the city. Rising into the hills is the village of Glencullen where you will find one of Ireland's most famous Pubs 'Johnny Foxes'. It is happy to be known as  Ireland's highest pub, which it isn't!* However - its a nice enough place to come to of an evening - inbetween sampling the views in the hills.
 
 
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