East Donegal Guide
looking across to the complex scenery of the Tra Na Rosann peninsula
latest update February 2008
The South and West of Donegal get the publicity - but the northern peninsulas: Tra Na Rosann, Fanad and Inishowen, have some of the best scenery, and the lowlands to the south have their own quiet magic. Between them is the fast growing town of Letterkenny, not the prettiest place in Ireland but a lively local centre. Derry City across the border can make for a good base for Inshowen, but there is now an alternative at Buncrana with its new hostel.
North From Donegal Town to Derry
The N15 bypasses Donegal Town (details n South Donegal Guide page). Take the R232 to the left after Laghy for the town itself. The main road now heads inland to climb up to the impressive and wild Barnesmore Gap before dropping into the farmland of the River Finn valley and the double town of Ballybofey and Stranorlar. Balleybofey hostel is down a lane to the right 1 km before town. To remind us that Irish politics have not always been the same the Church of Ireland has the grave of Issac Butt, protestant and founder of the Home Rule Movement for Irish independence. Here the N13 heads north over the hills almost to the edge of Lough Swilly, where it misses Letterkenny by 3 km. It then heads east as a fast modern road towards Derry. 5km from the border is the beautiful modern Burt Church, well worth venturing inside. Next to it a road leads 3km uphill to the Griann of Aleach. A 2000 year old round stone fort with one of the best panoramic views in Ireland. If you are driving stop at Bridge End to fill your tank up. Unless prices change dramatically petrol is cheaper on this side of the border.
Letterkenny Area
Before partition north Donegal looked to Derry as its market town. With the border established it had to create its own centre and Letterkenny got the job. However tiny Lifford on the river Foyle is still the administrative county town. Letterkenny has grown rapidly from small victoran town to its present 10 000 population. After its comprehensive redevelopment in the last 10 years it is a bustling centre in two halves. There is the traditional main street along High Road and.Old Port Road in the centre of town. Then there is the american strip style development along new Port Road heading east. In the centre the Chamber of Commerce Visitor Centre, Port Road has the information you need. There is a new Tourist Information Centre 1km east along the new Port Road by a recently constructed roundabout. St Eunans Cathedral is 1901 vintage Gothic. Donegal County Museum, High Road, free, gives you a historical introduction.On the new Port Road are the coach stops and a small modern shopping centre. There is frequent music in the bars and the Letterkenny Arts Festival for 4 days in late August, and the high quality An Grianan Theatre year round.
To the south east of town is the classic small Ulster town of Raphoe which has its own Cathedral, St Eunan's for the Church of Ireland diocese of Derry and Raphoe, it is in the Gothic style but built in 1702. 3km south are the excellently preserved 60 stones of Beltany Stone Circle. Further south east again is Lifford, the smaller, quieter twin of Strabane on the other bank of the Foyle.
Northern Peninsulas -
continuing coast route from West Donegal Guide
After Dunganaghy the coast road turns south. There are several small peninsulas jutting into Sheephaven Bay, The wooded Ards peninsula has a Forest Park, entry free, and a Capuchin monastery, with grounds are open to visitors. Past the small village of Creeslough head north east on the R245. Carrigart is the gate way to the lovely Rosguill Peninsular, which is several rounded hills joined together by sand bars. It is a contrast of glorious natural scenery and faded 1960's caravan parks. The An Oige Hostel on a hillside near the end of the peninsula derseves a mention as it is a early 20th century holiday lodge designed by british architect Edwin Lutyens. Music can be found in bars at Downings on the west coast of the peninsula and at the 'Singing Pub' 3km south of the hostel. From Carrigart it's a fine 16 km south to Millford looking over Broadwater Bay to the Fanad Peninsula.
Many places in Ireland claim to be its undiscovered treasure, including the Inishowen peninsula next door, but nowhere deserves the title more than the Fanad Peninsula. This area genuinely is off the tourist trail. Even during the last 15 years fast pace of change it has been content to follow its own slower clock. The south half of the peninsula has impressive hills and coastlines. The rolling countryside of the north half lives in pleasant isolation. A preserved lansdcape of fields and hedgerows gives way to more barren lowland before the dramatic setting of the lighthouse at Fanad Head. There are a number of fine examples of traditional shops and bars in the northern villages. Carrowkeel, 5km onto the west side of the Peninsula is a small holiday village. The R326 crosses to sleepy Portsalon on the east coast. It's beach in Ballymacstoker Bay was voted 2nd best in the world in the 1990's. Heading south from Portsalon the road climbs steeply up the end of Knocknallla Mountain into Glenvar from where it hugs the coast.with views over to Inishowen. Rathmullen is a pretty seaside village with a well preseved ruin (think that one through) of the carmelite Rathmullen Priory. 11km further south Rathmelton is a handsome small Georgian town. The R245 now heads inland for 13 km to Letterkenny (see below)
Inishowen
This roughly diamond shaped peninsula has a character all of its own. 40 km wide and 40km deep it is almost a county in itself. In 'Southern Ireland' but has Ireland's northernmost point and in County Donegal but the most natural place to visit it from is Derry. It has tried to sell itself as Ireland's undiscovered treasure but more acurately it is Ireland's most enticing paradox. For holidaymakers the coastal route around it is convieniently signposted as the 'Inishowen 100' From Letterkenny the N13 heads fast for Derry City. Head up the R239 and R238 2km on. Buncrana on the west coast is a pleasantly relaxed holiday town. There are now two routes. A minor one across rugged country closer to the coast leads to the breathtaking viewpoint at the top of the Gap of Mamore. The R239 heads for the pretty valley at Drumfree with its lake amongst the trees. Take the R244 for Cardonagh. This village is no beauty but the surrounding scenery flatters it.. Far prettier is Malin 5km north across a plain. This tiny planned town is the entry point to Malin Head, the peninsula at the end of the peninsula. the R242 now hugs the coast for 5km before climbing inland between sand dune like hills before descending into Ballygorman, the small village as the end of the peninsula. A 5km road weaves around the rocky headland itself. Finally the actual head itself is reached..
The most impressive scenery in the whole of Inishowen is it rugged northeast coast where cliffs and steep hillsides plunge into the sea carrying vertigo inducing roads with them. Turn east 4km south of Ballygorman for the coast. after a climb over moorland and several km swooping and diving by the sea Culdaff is reached. A small village on a river plain that is famed for its music sessions. The wild coast can be follwed for most of the way to Inishowen Head at its eastmost extremity or the R238 taks an inland route to the sleepy little resort of Moville. Sleepy that is unless the good people of Derry are here for a night out. The road along the bank of Lough Foyle makes for a scenic return to Derry. The border village of Muff is 8km north of the centre of the maiden city, but growth means it is fast becoming a commuter suburb. A bargain warehouse here offers clothes for about half their price in Northern Ireland.
