If you enter Donegal from the south a logical route to reach the northwest is as follows. Take the N56 west from Donegal town, it turns north a few km before Killybegs, climbing hills before decending to Ardara. This is a fine little village/town and centre for Donegal Tweed. Ardara Heritage Centre, entry free, tells the story of the weaving industry. The Corner House Bar has Trad music sessions at weekend and nightly from June to September. The N56 then heads inland to the genteel little town of Glenties, so called because it is where two Glens (valleys) descending from the southern Donegal Highlands meet. There is a fine modern Catholic Church here, its main feature a huge single pitch slate roof which speaks eloquently of shelter in this frequently drenched area.

 

 

 

The M56 then heads straight for Maas on Gweebarra Bay, hugging the coast for 4km inland then croosing the Gweebarra River. 4km on the road touches tidal Trawenagh Bay. Cyclists and all lovers of unspolit Ireland should turn left to the Crohy Head peninsula. Slow down, its tough going but worthwhile. After 5km the road climbs steeply and bucks its way around the hills of the Head. Here traditional cottages and farming practices survive. The road then falls to Maghery and a lowland ride to Dunglow.

 

Dunglow is a small town, but capital of The Rosses.  'The Rosses and Gweedore' are the heartland of northwest Donegal: a series of small villages and strung out settlements centred on the 'Rural City' of Derrybeg, the most densely populated rural area in Europe. In a musical country this area probably has the highest number of musicians as a percentage of the population. Both Clannad and Altan hail from here, their members born within 3km of each other. The Mary From Dungloe Festival is in late July/early August. Drink and music aid the election of the years....Mary from Dunglow. The R259 around the Rosses penisula has houses every few hundred yards. After 7km the fishing village of Burtonport has ferries to Aranmore Island, famous for its weekend partying. Another 5 km on  Kincaslough is home of Irish boy next door Daniel O'Donnell. His family used to run the Viking Hostel where the Viking Hotel now stands. There is an airport of sorts a few km further on and the main road is joined again at tiny Crolly. Turn left onto the last minor road  before Crolly to visit two Bars. On the left hand side of the Road is Leo's Tavern. Leo is father of Enya and half of Clannad. The pub opposite often has relatives of Altan playing in it.

 

A mile after Crolly head coastwards again, a side road heads down a narrow valley to Bunbeg Harbour, a plesant spot with Bar cum teashop. Ferries for Tory Island from here 075 31016. Continue north through the 'Rural City', there are fine beaches here. There is bleak coastal scenery around the Bloody Foreland. 7km after the foreland the village of Meenlaragh has ferries 074 35061 for Tory Island, This 4km long rocky outcrop is home to several hundered fiercly independent people. There is a simple hostel. There are acient church remains, birdwatching galore and locals painting - visit the Dixon Gallery next to Tory Island Hotel. Back to mainland route - 2km further on the Pier at Magheraoarty has a ferry for Tory Island and is where the owner of  Teach Johny Hostel on Inisboffin will pick you up in his inflatable boat. This is an oportunity to sample the life of a traditional seasonal island, with the population arriving in the spring and leaving in the autumn.  The road rejoins the N56 at Gortahork and 3km on is the village of Falcarragh, another good base for music. There are several bars here and  in the hills to the south. The route now proceeds to Dunfanaghy.Visit the Heritage Centre in the old workhouse to see the effects of the famine in this area.. The Horn Head peninsula may be small, but it is perfectly formed with 180m cliffs and panoramic views. A circuit of it would make a good day walk. From Dunfanaghy the N56 makes for pleasant up and down 42 km run into Letterkenny. Alternatively the Rosguill and Fanad Peninsulars to the west can be explored, go to East Donegal Guide.

 

 

The hostels at Crolly and Dunlewy make good bases for exploring the mountains. Eamonn Jordan at the Screag An Iolair Hostel in the hills above Crolly is an good person to talk to if you are walking. A mountain route by road could start at Glenties, then head for Fintown, then take the R252 to Dungloe via Doochary. The minor mountain road northwards to Crolly and Eamon's Hostel is tough going in beautiful scenery. At Crolly coast and mountain routes divide completely. The N56 curves around into the valley below Mount Errigal, which stands proud over the landscape for miles around like a smaller but still impressive mount Fuji. Several lakes fill the valley floor. Take the R251 east, it  rises into high bog, descends to another valley then curves south to the gates of Glenveagh National Park. where there is a good, well designed Visitors Centre with a welcome cafeteria, the only one in this area. The park is the estate of 19th century Glenveagh Castle which was given to the Irish nation in the 1930's. The Castle overlooks the 4km long lake in this straight glacial valley, go in to get a peak at the life of the huntin', shootin' and fishin' brigade. The planned gardens themselves are a treat. A fence across the mountains keeps the herd of red deer from straying.

 

The R251 continues south to the tranquil shores of Lough Gartan set in a gorgeous landscape of meadows and woodland. This is the birthplace of Colmcille/St Columba. There is a fine St Colmcille Heritage Centre and the regency Glebe House  with beautiful gardens. Local village Church Hill has a small shop and bar. From here it is 13km into Letterkenny. The last half being a pleasant journey down the Swilly valley.