North Kerry and
Limerick Guide
The Model School Limerick attended by Frank McCourt (Angela's Ashes)
latest update March 2008
North Kerry and Limerick would win a prize as the Area Most Often Hurried Through in Ireland. Don't join the rush. Here we have two lively working towns joined by a broad swathe of countryside filled with historic remains and Country Houses dating from prehistory to the 19th century. These plus a string of pleasant small Georgian towns make it an area worth exploring. Or at least take in a few of the sites on the way through.
Tralee
Tralee is the working capital of county Kerry and a fast expanding town. It has an attractive centre around Denny Street and The Square as well as an industrial area north of the centre and typical housing estates. After all it is a grown up town not just a tourist town like Killarney.
The centre of town is compact. Denny Street is a handsome Georgian road leading to Ashe Memorial Hall which houses the Tourist Office 066 712 1288 and Kerry The Kingdom Museum 066 712 7777 which includes a recreation of the Walled Town around 1450AD. The Siamsa Tire Theatre 066 712 3055 in the town park is home to the National Folk Theatre of Ireland. Baily's Public House, Ashe Street, has trad music most nights. Club Farbric 066 712 4174 Godfery Place has several floors catering for different club styles. The Aquadome 066 712 8899 on Dan Spring Road is a modern Leisure Centre with Pool. The Ballyard Steam Railway Station has trains on a few km of narrow gauge line between Tralee and Blennerville where there is a traditional Windmill now overpowered by its Visitor Centre 066 712 1064.
This is also of course the home of The Rose Of Tralee festival at the Ashe Memorial Hall in August. Samhlaiocht puts on events showing off local creativity in all the arts throughout the year.
Tralee is the end of the line for trains in the south west. Trains to Killarney, Cork and Dublin at the Train Station 066 712 3522 Corner of Edward Street/John Joe Sheehy Road. Bus Station next to Train Station 066 716 4700
Around the Coast to Tarbet and Limerick
The north Kerry coast has none of the drama of those further south but it is popular with traditional Irish holidaymakers. At Ardfert there is the impressive hulk of Ardfert Cathedral. Along the coast are the 10 km of Banna Strand which stretch to Ballyheigue, a resort village in a 1930's timewarp. Kerry Head offers the finest views around. Ballybunnion is unimpressive, but is home to Ballybunnion Golf Course which hosted the 2000 Irish Open Championship. The coast now rounds into the Shannon Estuary to the little port town of Tarbert from where the useful Tarbet-Killimer Ferry 065 905 3124 crosses to County Clare. The scenery improves as the N69 hugs the estuary past Glin with its impressive Castle. You can stop for tea in the Gatehouse or visit the castle itself where the interior reflects the history of Irish Craftsmanship. In the days of flyingboats. Foynes was Ireland's original airport for the Americas. Foynes Museum tells the story. Closer to Limerick City is Curragh Chase. 600 acres of broadleaf forest, a rarity in Ireland, and gardens open from Easter to Mid-September.
North to Tarbet and County Clare
The fast way north from County Kerry to County Clare heads from Tralee through Listowel where it is worth stopping. This is an attractive small Georgian town with plenty going on. There is the St John's Theatre and Arts Centre 068 22590 in the church of the same name and the Kerry Literary and Cultural Centre 068 22212. This is home to the Writers Exhibition and base for the Writers Week each May.
Tralee/Killarney to Limerick
The N23 from Killarney joins the N23 from Tralee at the small town of Castle Island. 2km north on the old road is the spectacular Crag Cave 066 714 1244. Abbeyfeale is a fair little town but Newcastle West is a far more substantial Georgian place with the well preserved Desmond Banquetting Hall on the main square. Just before Rathkeale is Castle Matrix 069 64284, a fully restored Tower Castle, where you can take a guided tour. Adare owes its reputation to a line of chocolate box pretty thatched cottages but there is more of greater substance to attract you. The 14th century Trinitarian Priory has been restored as the local Catholic church and the Augustinian Friary is restored as the Church of Ireland church. Every July the Adare Festival is held at Adare Manor with Classical musicians from around the world. There's no hostel on the N21 between Tralee/Killarney and Limerick but there is one to the south between Rathekeele and Adare in the pretty village of Ballingarry.
Limerick
This is one of the most worthwhile Irish towns to visit. For a range of things to do its up there with Cork and Belfast. But it isn't happy with its own image and has spent the last twnty years trying to forget its identity as a 19th century port. Locals had mixed feelings when Frank McCourt's Angela's Ashes became a best seller and then a Film. You can go on an Angela's Ashes walking tour but the town dosn't want to live in the past. In a way this is a shame. In 1990 is was a perfectly preserved Victorian town with considerable medieval remains and plenty of modern life Today it has a lot of new buildings but many unique survivals, especially of working class life, have been bulldozed. Greater Limerick is now one of Ireland's most spread out towns. A whole new town area has developed around Limerick University to the east of the centre and suburban housing goes out for miles in all directions, crossed by a network of new by pass roads.
Medieval Limerick. This is centred on the Shannon. St Mary's Cathedral from the 12th to 15th centuries, Merchant's Quay, overflows with history. King John's Castle 061 360 788 has a visitors centre that revels in the gory detail of Irish history. Next to it is The Limerick Museum, entry free, with a broad sweep of history in a small space. On the opposite side of the river is the Black Abbey, another impresive medieval church.
Georgian/Victorian Limerick. This is laid out on a grid street plan on the left bank of the Shannon. The Hunt Museum, Rutland Street, the best museum outside Dublin in a Palladian Customs House by the river. Limerick City Gallery of Art 061 310 633 Pery square, has a fine collection of paintings by Irish artists.The Georgian House 061 314 130 2 Pery Square shows you what life was like for the rich in 19th century Limerick.
Irishtown. This area to the east of the central grid of street was where the working class lived. It has suffered most from the town's 'improvements'. It is watched over by the massive 19th century St John's Catholic Cathedral.
The New Limerick. The local Council decided that the town needed a new look and they have been busy. The steel and glass Tourist Information Centre, Arthur's Quay, was one of the first and best new buildings. Sadly it is a revenue producing exercise first and source of information second: it gives the impression that if they could make you pay for breathing the air they would. New Cruises Street near by is a typical modern shopping street.
Nightlife. It is now 15 years since The Cranberries put Limerick on the rock music map. There is a lively local scene encompassing every musical flavour you can think of. Costello's Tavern, 4 Dominic Street and The Locke Bar, Georges Quay, cater for the Trad music crowd, the later having table outside overlooking the river. Belltable Arts Centre, O'Connell Street, 061 319866 does what arts centres do, music, theatre and exhibitions. The Savoy Centre 061 311900 is an 8 screen cinema and saturday night disco.
Trains 061 315 555 and Bus Eireann coaches 061 313 333to/from Colbert Station, Parnell Street The Nearest Airport is Shannon Airport 24km west in County Clare.
Inland County Limerick
The county is little visited but well worth exploring. Lovers of hill country may be surprised to find fine unexplored areas. To the east.the Slieve Felim Mountains, part of a range of peacefull rounded high hills that cross into County Tipperary. To the south is the north part of the Ballyhoura region, a classic area of wooden hills.
20km south of the city on the R512 is tranquil Lough Gur which is worth visiting just as a place to walk around and relax at. It is at the heart of an area rich in prehistoric remains including 4000 year old Grange Stone Circle. An Interpretive Centre in a thatched hut by the lake will give you an overview of the area. 13km further on is Kilmallock. In medieval times it was the 3rd largest town in the country. A sections of the walls with the Blossom Gate survives. The 20m high tower St John's Castle stands in the main street, The remains of the 13th century Church of St Peter moulder by the River Loobagh. On the other side of the river are the remains of a similarly aged Dominican Priory.
If you support a United Ireland a visit to county Limerick will not be complete without stopping at nearby Bruree, where Eamon De Valera grew up after leaving New York. His whole life was dedicated to Irish independence, as president of the 1918 Dail Eireann, leader of the 32 county side in the Irish Civil War 1921 - 1023, founder of the Finne Fail Party, proclaimer of the Irish Republic in 1937 when Ireland left the British Commonwealth and Finally president of Ireland in 1959. An office he was elected to twice. The school he attended in the village is now a museum dedicated to him. I km north is the cottage where he lived. There is a sign with instructions for obtaining the key.
