North Mayo Guide
'Local artist ends sheep shortage in County Mayo'
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latest update March 2008
In north west Mayo the landscape dominates: from the lonely Nephim Beg Mountains to Achill Island to the bleak bogs of Erris and the impressive cliffs of the north coast. This is also one of the last unspoiled areas of Ireland, apart from the recent untaxed building on Achill Island. North east Mayo is gentler, centred on Lough Conn and the up and coming town Ballina.
Clockwise around the Coast:
Westport to Mulrenny
The N59 wanders pleasantly through drumlin hills to Newport. An even smaller but quite stately Georgian port dominated by the arched viaduct of the old railway to Achill Island. From here there are several beautiful routes through the mountains. To the north is the tranquillity of Lough Feeagh in a gap in the Nephin Beg Mountains. The only other tourists you are likely to encounter here are fisherman. There is a primitive but passable road north through forest to Crossmolina. Northeast from Newport is a lovely valley route past Beltra Lough to Lough Conn. The N59 heads due west to Mulrenny where a dilapidated but still impressive victorian mansion faces the sea looking over its overgrown gardens which swoop down to the shore.
Achill Island
Mulrenny is gateway to Achill Island. The R319 heads west around Corraun peninsular, which strictly speaking isn't part of the island but shares its impressive bleakness. Achill has no major settlements, instead there are several spread out villages. The first is Achill Sound where the old Railway Station is now a hostel. It is also home to the contraversial visionary and healer Christina Gallagher. The island is a place of extremes. Huge hills soar out of flat bogland and waves crash against lofty cliffs. At the farthest point is the shattered side of Croaghan, A 665m 70 degree steep fall into the sea. In the centre of the island are the 400m high hanging cliffs of Mweelin. The island proper is reached at the township of Achill with a road across the sound. North of Keel village are the ghostly remains of Slievemore Deserted Village. The Valley Hostel is the house where the events in the play 'The Playboy of the Western World' actually happened. There are fine beaches which you will have to yourself except in high summer. In early August the Sciol Acla Festival sees traditional music and dance across the island. Find out about artists of all kinds, past and present who have been inspired by Achill at www.achill247.com .
Mulrenny to Pollatomish
From Mulrenny the N59 turns suddenly north into the bleakest, most sparcely populated area of Ireland. After a few km there is the village of Ballycroy where there is a Visitors Centre for Ballycroy National Park. There really isn't anything here - that's the point - just the bog, the mountains and some trees. After 20 wild boggy miles Bangor is a small town based on the popularity of the area with anglers.. Head west on the R313 then north after 1 km on a tiny road overlooking Carrowmore Lake towards Pollatomish, The best base for north west Mayo. There is something magical about Sruwaddacon Bay. This area was very poor until EU money arrived in the early 1990's. There are still many survivals of a simple rural economy. North of the bay the fields still radiate down from the tops of the low rounded hills so that each farmer gets a share of the best land.
Belmullet
Try as I might I cannot work up enthusiasm for this peninsula. A south westerly wind almost perpetually straffes its low lying bogland. In the late 1990's Belmullet was a town still caught caught in a 1960's timewarp. There are compensations for anglers and bird watchers and people who like to be out in ALL the elements.
Pollatomish to Ballina
The R314 heads east across the bleak bog to a north coast of low cliffs and the Ceide fields where remains of a 5000 year old farming community have been preserved petrified beneath the turf. After excavations in the early 1990's a fine Interpretive Centre with pyramidal roof has been built. But the story told inside doesn't match that of the archeologists I talked to when they were digging. The remains show a far more advanced agriculture than the one described here. There isn't much to do in Ballycastle but Killala is a pretty little town with a long history. There is a fine little Church of Ireland Cathedral. a minor road to Ballina nearer the coast takes you past two ruined abbeys: Moyne Abbey and Rosserk Abbey. In the last 15 years Ballina has roused itself and dusted itself off, to reveal a handsome Victorian town where a New University College is due to be built. Tourist Office 096 70848 Cathedral Road.
East of Ballina there are roads heading along the coast in the direction of Sligo, but there is also the R294 which rises into the west end of the Ox mountains, with lovely scenery just after it crosses the Sligo border atound Lough Talt.
Around Lough Conn.
Between Castlebar and Ballina are the beautiful Loughs Conn and Lough Cullin. The best base for the area is Foxford, a little 19th century industrial town where the wild Ox Mountains almost come down to Lough Cullin. Today, as in other parts of north Mayo anglers are as important as the town economy, as is the Foxford Woolen Mill , which you can visit, the tour includes the modern factory.
