Wicklow Guide
St Kevin's Kitchen at Glendalough
latest update March 2008
You can visit county Wicklow and come away with a wide range of memories: of hiking across the moorland at the top of the mountain plateau, exploring the green valleys that lead up to it, sunning yourself by the sea at Brittas Bay, visiting the country house gardens and picknicking beneath the trees in the Vale of Avoca. These and more can be yours starting on the southern fringes of the capital and everything is within about 70km of Dublin city centre.
South by the coast
The first half of the coast is low key until Wicklow town where the hills come down to the sea, there are then several fine bays before Arklow town.
Dublin exerts its influence down the coast. Bray, pop 25 000, is in effect the southernmost suburb of the city. 3 km south Kilruddery House and Gardens are worth a visit. Commuter towns and villages follow. Wicklow is now a smart place with about 7000 residents. Visit the infamous Jail on Kilmantin Hill. Wicklow Regatta Festival 0404 68354 lasts two weeks between July and August with swimming, rowing and sailing on the water, concerts and a Festival Ball on land. 5km from town are the carefully laid out Mount Usher Gardens with various habitats created to show plants from around the world at their best.
The influence of Dublin subsides as the minor coast road rises to look over the Irish Sea and sweeps down to the fine sand of Brittas Bay. The county border is marked by Arklow, a busier town of 10000 bypassed by the main road. Tourist Office at Coach House Upper Main Street. There is a brace of lively bars and a small Maritime Museum 0402 32868 on St Mary's road.
South by the east side of the mountains
The pretty estate village Enniskerry is the gateway to the majestic Powerscourt Gardens, with landscaped gardens set against the backdrop of Great Sugarloaf Mountain. The house is a ruin after a fire in the 1970's. The R755 road leads south across sheep farming country and heathland through the village of Roundwood with its surrounding lakes to Laragh. This tiny village is gateway to Glendalough, one of the great locations in Ireland which looks great in any weather. Here the Seven Churches early monastic remains nestle in a beautiful glacier carved valley with two lakes. The valley is now the centre of Wicklow National Park. You cannot miss the Round Tower and the unique church called St Kevin's Kitchen. The Youth Hostel has the best location in the valley. The forestry woodlands are worth exploring by foot or cycle.
From Glendalough the Vale of Clara and Vale of Avoca form a magical 30km route down river valleys to Arklow. Prepare to be enchanted in late spring when bluebells bloom in dappled sunlight beneath the trees. The small town of Rathdrum is a useful base with hostels. 2km south is Avondale House and Forest Park, The house was the home of Charles Stuart Parnell, a key figure in proposing Irish Home Rule in the late 19th century. Not far afterwards is the 'meeting of the waters' where two rivers join and no visit to this area would be complete without popping into Avoca, the tidy little village where the Ballykissangel series was filmed. As a reminder that you can't eat the scenery there is a substantial factory to the left on the way into Arklow.
South over the mountains by the military road.
Even from the centre of Dublin you can see the mountains. Those nearest the city and within Dublin County are known as the Dublin Mountains. Nature does not respect a border including this county line. The British did an unintentional service here. The military road they drove through the uplands after the 1798 rebellion now serves as the way for tourists to access the higher ground. At Glencree, 25km south of Dublin is the first barracks is now a Glencree Reconcilliation Centre. There is a German War Cemetery opposite and gardens by a stream where Our Lady is meant to have appeared in the last 20 years - old Irish piety is not dead. From here it's an impressively bleak trek across the moor. The Sally Gap road crosses on an east/west route. There is a bracing descent to Glendalough past a valley filled with lakes.
The military road then heads south west for a rollercoaster ride around high hills to the stark classical barracks at Aghavannah. These house a Youth Hostel which is closed until a much needed renovation (agreed in June 2003) is undertaken. The road then heads through more wild country towards Carlow town. Half way to Aghavannagh the road crosses the unspoiled valley of Glenmalure leading into the mountains. There is a basic Youth Hostel several kilometres uphill for those who want to get away from as much as possible of 'it all', but it is only open on saturdays for most of the year.
This was the original long distance foot path in Ireland and now forms part of a chain of paths linking all the way to the peninsulas in the south west via the hill country in between. From Marlay Park in Rathdrum, south Dublin it takes a path along the west side of the Wicklow Mountains towards Glendalough, Aghavannagh and then continuing through the south of the county by villages of Tinahely and Shillelagh towards the small town of Bunclody on the Carlow/Wexford border.
South by the west side of the mountains.
Just because most hostels in the Wicklows are to the east doesn't mean this area is second best. Some of the highlights of the county are west of the mountains.
From Dublin's southern suburbs the N81 rises slowly and the scenery improves steadily towards the pleasant classical village of Blessington where you can stop for a bite to eat. A few km further on the substantial 18th century palladian style Russborough House 045 865 239 looks across the road at the Blessington Lakes. A great choice of site? Well, actually the lakes were created in the 1920's to ensure a water supply for Dublin which is delivered by the river Liffey. See its impressive art collection at the house. From Hollywood a pretty side road heads towards the village of Donard. Turn right here to head into the Glen of Imaal, one of the great scenic spots in the county. The quiet of this wide valley below Lugnaquilla mountain, 924 metres, is occasionally broken by action at the local artillery range. Before heading uphill from here you should check that it is safe to do so.
Heading south again brings you to Baltinglass, in lovely hill rather than mountain country. The scenery turns an otherwise unremarkable small town into pleasant place to stop.
Other Routes.
Even a short guide to Wicklow would be incomplete without mentioning the two main passes from East to West across the mountains. Nearer Dublin is the Sally Gap from Kilbride to Strathmore. The Wicklow Gap road runs from Hollywood on the west side to great views on the descent to Glendalough on the east side. There is now a marked footpath. St Kevins Way, from Glendalough up to the Gap.
Another route worth taking, especially for cyclists, provides a view of another side of the county. There is a back route from Arklow westwards to Carlow town through a restful scenery of river valleys and rounded high hills. Take the R747 as far as Tinahely, the R749 to Shillelagh then the R725 into Carlow Town via Tullow.
