Female standard grey carrier,split for /violet  with first born an ultra violet kit

 

Two hours later we see the second born kit who is a black velvet.

 Mothers under belly still wet, kits crawling freely to be with mother.

 

Shortly after being cleaned up, the kits are feeding,

note the first born kit on left, tail is now curling up, this is a good indication of well being. Violet kit now fluffy and dry under mum's chin, black velvet kit at rear

If the male is left in you will have breedback.while it is okay to do this once if the females are like mine an healthy robust blocky females. However it is not advisable to always keep male in as mums need a rest. They are not breeding machines!!! This is where po;gamous cages are handy. The males are still able to be above the their partner and have contact and see what is going on but are unable to mate as a slide is put along on the females cage. Males are quite happy being 'above' the females. If next to each other in cages side ny side they tend to mope.

It is normal behaviour for chinnies to mate right away, however I think the mothers need a rest. I only allow my chinchilla females to have two litters per year.

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Have a good look at kits and observe their appearance at this stage. No need to take them out, leave with mum while you do this. Do the eyes look ok, are they open? If  the eyelids appear to be stuck together it is imperative that you take that kit out from cage and bath the eyes with a saline solution or cooled boiled water until eyes are opened. Use cotton wool ball to gently wipe eyes from inner corner to outer corner until eyelids are unstuck and no crust or mucous remaining otherwise the sight may be impaired. You can also buy kitten eye drops from the pet store to clean the eye.  when you replace kit in cage rub the kit against mums side and belly to remove your scent from its fur. This way mum will accept baby as hers. With your scent on it she might reject it. If kits are fighting? read below on how to rotate and suppliment

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If you have more than one kit and sometime when this is her first litter her milk may take a while to come in. Look at and read up on handrearung as you may have to rotate or hand feed kits.

Look out also for sore red teats in the mum if kits are over zealous and greedy. If mum's teats red and sore apply a small smear of vaseline (petrolium jelly) it is not toxic, no odour and kits will still feed with this on. Aviod sand'bath for mum while vaseline is on the teats.

Fighting kits? small wounds, may be treated by washing with sterile water or antiseptic wash (see first aid box) then a small smear of Savlon or Vaseline(petrolium jelly) again don't allow the injured kit to go into the sand while this is on other wise the sand will stick to it. This is for minor wounds, for more serious ones? see your vet.

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separating at 8-12 weeks

under the age of 12 weeks a male may be showing signs of sexual urges. however he is no threat as yet to mum or sister if under 12 weeks, if over 12 weeks then i suggest putting him out of sight and sound of mum so that the separation is fully successful otherwise he will continue to mope and so will mum.

More than one kit

male&female mixed sex kits & mutiple litters/ ideally until the kits are perhaps eight/nine weeks, leave with mum then take both kits out and keep together until 12 weeks. you then separate then to live on their own. especially if male. Males tend to fight if females are present

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