Bluebell my Ultra Violet Female with her kit.

One very important rule when dealing with pregnant female chinchillas is.

Do Not handle them too much. They can and may abort with owners handing them roughly.

Extra food may be required, although it is not uncommon for a female to go off food and eat less sometimes. Just be observant.

The 111-day gestation period is usually spot on, with maybe a day or so different.

Before the due date, REMOVE ALL HIGH SHELVES: remove the sand-bath the week before due date. Dust baths are very rarely sterile and free from bacteria. The doe after having giving birth may contract a womb or vaginal inflammation.

Put newspapers on the floor, this helps babies walk around the floor. after the birth IF YOU HAVE A HIGH CAGE and have removed the shelves it is a good idea to line the sides with cardboard. This will stop the babies from climbing and reduce falls and accidents.

It is often noticed she will drink more a few days before giving birth and eat less food. Droppings will also be softer., she will be seen to start stretching a lot or just laze about quietly resting. The kits can also be seen to be moving as she lies.

A doe by instinct will manage very well on her own to give birth. The litter is usually born early in the morning. At first sign of birth she will be stretching a lot and may make a moaning labouring sound.

The fluid from the birth sac will be discharged first. Labour is usually short. The usual amount of kits is two, sometimes three or more. In the case of multiple births the birthing may take place over a few hours.

The doe will clean and dry her kits as they are born. It is very unusual for a mother to abandon her kit, although it may sometimes happen.

Make sure room is warm ans do NOT take kits from the cage unless they are not moving/breathing! MUM is better than you at looking after her kits and needs to bond with them. I never handle the kits on the first day! only if they appear lifeless or not breathing do I take them out to revive them. If she appears to be ignoring it? it may just be that another is on the way. Do not interfere unless she is in difficulty. Most females in labour manage perfectly well on their own.

If the baby appears dead or lifeless, dont give up, try this first. Bathe the baby in warm plain water, lowered up to it’s neck and massage for a short time, it may soon recover. Do this ONLY if kit appears lifeless.

Wrap in a warm towel to dry gently and then place on a heat pad until it has revived and ready to be put back with the doe. When you put it back rub the kit against her belly to get her scent back on to it, otherwise she may reject it. The mother will deliver one placenta with each kit. It is normal for the doe to eat the afterbirth and when she does so it is usually a sign that the birth is over. If you see blood on the mothers nose or forepaws it is a clear sign that the after-birth has been past and eaten.

Sometimes there is evidence left of a dead half eaten kit this is often because it's been a breach birth and when no-one around to help. So mum has tried to pull the kit out herself. Or the kit was born dead and mum has done what's natural in the wild. Seems gruesome I know but in the wild they do often eat the dead babies to avoid the attention of predators who may be attracted by scent of a dead kit. Put simply she is clearing up any eveidence of weakly chinchillas kits.

Usually it is okay to leave the buck with the doe and kits, however it should be noted that if you do not want them to mate again. It would be wise to separate them as mating usually takes place immediately after the birth. I myself only allow two litters in a year, then the doe is rested. they are not breeding machines!

*To avoid breedbacks males should be removed FIVE DAYS at least before the birth, Also NOTE female chins do not always come into season every 28 days, just like in humans, the length of a season and the time between seasons varies from animal to animal. So don't take chances

also read Chinchilla heat and pregnancy

If you are allowing ONE breedback

One problem which may occur  is, in the breedback mating which can be a bit hectic, the kits are in danger of being hurt. Have a tube toy or some place for them to hide if mum and dad are 'active' this will protect them. Just take care and observe.

Its also a good idea to have a hide box with no roof on it. [1] it gives mum and kits a place to rest. [2] with no roof the mum cant sit on top. Sometimes a mum will sit up on the hide box or a shelf to sleep. Young kits cannot always climb up on to top of hide box until older. thus they are neglected and starve. Another common error with owners not realising.......or noticing. shame. so many babies have died through not being able to reach mum. Not all mums do this of course, most are very caring. there is the odd one though who doesnt seen to fuss as much as she should. For this reason all shelves should be removed so that mum cannot sit up high and sleep. The kits need the warmth and comfort also regular feeding from mum. If she is sitting high up on a shelf or hide box the kits may die through starvation or cold.

Kits are born with a full set of teeth, their eyes are open, and their tail down for a short while. Within a few hours or so the tail will slowly curl. Pic of a healthy well fed kit. Tail curling up!   

This should happen within twelve hours of being born. If not you may need to supplimement feed. The formula for this is on the  hand rearing kits page

they learn to nibble at pellets from an early age.This is a very good guideline as to whether the kit is healthy and receiving enough nourishment and care. The droppings from a baby will also give you an idea as to whether all is well. They should be firm and not soft .

After six to eight weeks the young chinchilla should be eating pellets and drinking water on its own. Keep a check on their droppings and water intake once they are separated from the mother. Also allow the female recovery time before mating again. It may be also that she will not accept the buck for a while. This sometimes happens. Patience and observance is needed.

If you wish to have the young chinchillas tame and docile, you should really handle then from an early age. leave mum to bond with her kits on that first daythough! Do NOT remove the kit from cage. I know it's tempting to pick them up but unless they are not feeding or poorly leave them alone! Mum has to bond with her kits. On the second day it is safe to handle them and then anly short periods.  Remember to rub kit against mum's underbelly to get her scent back on it or she may reject it as not being hers. most breeder do thia as the days go on only a few minutes at a time or you may stress mum out by takIng her kit away. These short intervals gets then used to being handled. I will follow this page up with another page on how to handle them and make them tame and used to human contact