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 Tank Capacity  

Author: Curtis B.

Date Submitted: 7/4/2003

"How many fish can I put into my tank?"

This is a very common question posted on message boards all over the internet and we are all guilty of the urge to add just a few more fish to a tank so I thought that I would write a composition of every thing I have observed and learned to help some people know what to watch out and test their water for. It is a very long winded answer I really don’t know how to shorten it. Every time someone asked this question you would get different answers.

Over the years, a few " laws" have been developed depending on what type of fish you are keeping. The most common for freshwater tropical fish is the "1 inch of fish per gallon of water," (2.5 cm of fish for every 3.8 liters) a variation of which is the "one inch of fish per 12 square inches of tank surface area"( 2.5 cm of fish for every 30 square cm of surface area) . In reality, these laws are not very useful except for as a rough guideline. How do you compare a 6" long aggressive Cichlids  with a 2" long platy?  Body mass, rather than length, and aggressiveness should be taken into consideration.

The most important limitation in your aquarium is Oxygen. Fish must have oxygen to breathe. The more fish in the water, the more oxygen that must be supplied. When Oxygen reaches total saturation then there is no more Oxygen available , no matter HOW MUCH you try to pump more into it. Fish are not the only users of this limited Oxygen. The more Fish to feed and make waste the more bacteria need to grow and take care of that load. This added load of bacteria is also part of the total bio load in your aquarium. Gas exchanges at the surface of your tank made with agitation has proven to be the best Oxygen source and gas elimination for an aquarium. Temperature and elevation are very important factors in determining O2 saturation levels. Higher temperature and higher elevation mean less available O2 for fish and bacteria.  Get an Oxygen Test if your fish are gasping. Test BEFORE or just after you turn the lights on for the lowest reading in a planted tank.

For further details on Oxygen and it’s importance you should read this very detailed paper and note the Saturation levels.. http://www.bioconlabs.com/oxy.html

Ammonia is also a limiting factor. Ammonia is removed by nitrification (bacteria) to form nitrite and then nitrate. ( It can also be removed directly through plants.)  This process produces free Hydrogen ions which in turn also will lower PH. At a lower PH the Bacteria slow down and this can lead to an ammonia build up which in turn will lead to stress for your fish .The rate at which the pH drops depends upon the KH ( buffering ) of the water and how much nitrification is taking place. Over feeding can make the Ammonia / bacteria levels rise.

The more the bio load the more the fish keeper needs to maintain and check the tank The most noticeable thing that I have seen in my heavy loaded fry tanks is a quickly lowering pH.  I have very soft water in Washington State and the rate is quick, sometimes .4 points in 48 hours.

I can not tell you how much fish your methods and aquarium can handle. It all depends on how good a fish keeper you are and how much you are maintaining and checking your water with test kits. Test kits are very good at telling you when something is wrong. The "lazy" or concerned fish keeper should stick with fewer fish likely using the water surface area rule I mentioned at the top of this long winded spiel. Hexagon tanks and high tanks are not as good at releasing gasses as are long and wide tanks. (Long / low tanks have the added benefit of being easier to clean.). 

Here are common USA tank sizes and calculated "Fishy inches" chart, using the water surface area formula.

Note : take into account fish mass and exclude tail fins as part of length. Consider a subjective estimate of fish mass - I consider Full sized platy 2" long a full sized Neon tetra about 1/2" long and a full sized Angel about 8" long

Tank Size

Outside Measurement LxWxH

CALC. Fish Inches

 

 

Using (L x W ) /12

10 Leader

20 1/4 x 10 1/2 x 12 9/16

18

15 High

20 1/4 x 10 1/2 x 18 3/4

18

20 X-High

20 1/4 x 10 1/2 x 23 3/4

18

10 Long

24 1/4 x 8 1/2 x 12 5/8

17 1/3

15 Show

24 1/4 x 8 1/2 x 16 5/8

17 1/3

15 Gallon

24 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 12 3/4

25 1/4

20 High

24 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 16 3/4

25 1/4

25 Gallon

24 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 20 3/4

25 1/4

30 X-High

24 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 24 3/4

25 1/4

20 Long

30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 12 3/4

31 1/2

29 Gallon

30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 18 3/4

31 1/2

37 Gallon

30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 22 3/4

31 1/2

26 Flatback

36 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 16 5/8

37 3/4

23 Long

36 1/4 x 12 5/8 x 13

38

30 Gallon

36 1/4 x 12 5/8 x 16 3/4

38

38 Gallon

36 1/4 x 12 5/8 x 19 3/4

38

45 Gallon

36 1/4 x 12 5/8 x 23 3/4

38

30 Breeder

36 3/16 x 18 1/4 x 12 15/16

55 1/4

40 Breeder

36 3/16 x 18 1/4 x 16 15/16

55 1/4

50 Gallon

36 7/8 x 19 x 19 5/8

58 1/2

65 Gallon

36 7/8 x 19 x 24 5/8

58 1/2

33 Long

48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 12 7/8

51 1/4

40 Long

48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 16 7/8

51 1/4

45 Long

48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 19

51 1/4

55 Gallon

48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 21

51 1/4

60 Gallon

48 3/8 x 12 7/8 x 23 7/8

52 1/4

80 X-High

48 7/8 x 14 x 30 3/4

57

75 Gallon

48 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 21 3/8

74 3/4

90 Gallon

48 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 25 3/8

74 3/4

110 X-High

48 7/8 x 19 x 30 3/4

77 1/2

120 Gallon

48 1/2 x 24 1/4 x 25 1/2

98

100 Gallon

72 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 19 3/8

111 3/4

125 Gallon

72 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 23 3/8

111 3/4

150 Gallon

72 1/2 x 18 1/2 x 28 1/2

111 3/4

180 Gallon

72 1/2 x 24 1/2 x 25 5/8

148

   
     
   
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