Restoration Tips

The idea of this page is to share techniques for classic kart restorations. If anyone has any ideas, let me know and I'll add them.

1. If you have a faded, scruffy covering on a leather steering wheel, use a black shoe dye to rejuvinate it. Follow the instructions that come with it (obtainable from shops like Woolworths) and after painting, seal with black shoe polish.  This even seems to work on vinyl covered wheels as well.

2. If you need components for old 25mm axles (not 1" versions), modern Cadet karts use this size. Hubs, sprocket and brake carriers, bearings, etc. can all be obtained.

3. Old, rusty exhausts look better cleaned and oiled than painted with heat-resistant paint. Clean the rust off using wet 'n' dry or wire wool (used lightly) back to the base metal, then use a rag dipped in oil (any sort will do) to coat the surface entirely, rubbing off the excess. This can be re-applied as required and prevents further rust - painted exhausts tend to get oil on them that then can't be cleaned off - oiled exhausts can always be re-oiled and always look dark, clean and smooth.

4. Rusty chromework can often be cleaned up. Use very fine wet 'n'dry/wire wool (without the soap) to clean off the rust and pitting (if very bad rust) - be very careful though, as the chrome plating may be very thin and you could cut right through to the tubing. If just light surface pitting, or after using the wire wool, etc. use Silvo (silver polish); let the silver polish dry, then polish off with a cotton cloth. The silver polish removes the layer of oxidation on the chrome and gives it an amazing shine.

If the rust was the tubing (not the chrome plating) you may be best advised to use a clear aerosol laquer when done to seal the metal and prevent further rusting. Rust on chrome is often surface chrome rust though, and not the tubing itself rusting inside to out.

 

 

 

 

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