How to get into High-Power Shooting

Introduction

So you want to get started with High-Power Rifle competitions, do you? It is not as difficult as you may imagine. Really.

Let me address your first fear (even if you have not identified it yet): looking like an idiot to other shooters. So long as you follow appropriate and safe firearm handling procedures and have the right attitude, no one is going to laugh when you score in the 25% range. Trust me, I've been there.

Safety is very important. I know that everyone says that all the time but it is. The only way for our hobby (shooting firearms) and sport (competitions) to survive is to be safe. It only takes one negligent discharge of a firearm and a hefty lawsuit to shut down a range. If you don't already know the safety procedures, please take a class (NRA Basic Firearm, state game commission Hunter Trapper Education, state sanctioned concealed carry course, or equivalent) before you go to a competition. Personally, I'd prefer that you know the procedures before you go to the range just to plink.

Attitude is also very important. If you act like you know everything and should get a perfect score (and shooting 25%), then you will get laughed at. Just like you may have laughed at the fishing "expert" who constantly gets tangled in his own lines. If you are a grand master, then you can act like you know everything (but not many of them will be reading this article).

This article is written for anyone who wants to get started – you do not have to use an AR-15 to compete (it just helps). There are a number of topics that need to be covered: Terminology, What High Power Events are, Rules, Range Commands, Equipment needs, Things to do before going to your first event, more hints, and some references.

Terminology

Like many of life's activities, this sport has its own terminology. When you first hear or see the words you feel overwhelmed because you may not know what they really mean. This is a good point to cover some of those terms.

What is "High Power Rifle Shooting?" Well, it is the sport of shooting paper "bullseye" targets using a high power rifle. What is a "High Power Rifle?" In general it is a rifle that uses centerfire cartridges, usually between .22 and .35 calibers.

In general, you need a rifle that allows you to load 2 or 5 rounds and then reload with 8 or 5 rounds (respectively) very quickly (for "rapid fire"). You also need to be able to load single rounds (for "slow fire"). The rifle needs to be fairly accurate with a good adjustable sight. The trigger weight should be about 4.5 pounds.

There are two categories of rifles: service and match. A service rifle is one that is essentially the same as that used by the military (typical rifles are the M1 Garand not match conditioned, semi-automatic M14 or M1A, and AR-15 that looks like the M-16/M-16A1/M-16A2). A match rifle is just about anything else; if there are serious match rifle competitors in your area, you will see rifles that look like they belong in a Star Wars movie. You can use a service rifle in a match rifle competition but not the other way around (realize that a match rifle will assist the shooter much more than your service rifle).

Shooting positions: You have prone (laying on your stomach), seated (with your buttocks on the ground), kneeling (on your knees – an alternative for seated that I have not seen used), and standing (also known as off hand). There have been several books written on proper positions.

For some positions, the sling attached to the rifle must be at "parade rest" (attached to both ends and not too loose). For others, you can attach it to your non-trigger finger arm (which greatly aids in keeping the same position). You can use any sling that is similar to standard military issue. Proper use of the sling is a book in itself.

Types of shooting: rapid and slow fire. Rapid fire involves loading the rifle, the clock starts, you get into position, fire those rounds, reload, and fire those rounds in a limited time period. Most rifles load with two rounds and reload with eight (because the M1 Garand reloads with eight). Obviously, you need to have two magazines prepared before starting. If your rifle has a capacity of five rounds (the M1903 for instance), you can load with five and reload with five. Typically, you will have sixty or seventy seconds to do all this. Although it may not seem like enough time you do have time to aim with reasonable care and fire all your rounds. Slow fire means you get into position, load the first round, and the clock starts. You have approximately one minute load and fire each round. You must single load each round (you cannot have more than one round in a magazine).

Types of sights: metallic and optics. Metallic sights are the original style that come with the rifle – a piece of metal that you look through at the back and a post of some kind near the muzzle that you put on the target. In other words, you can't use a scope in a metallic sight competition. For service rifle competitions, the metallic sights must be essentially the same as was issued to servicemen. Optics is another word for a rifle scope.

"Alibi" or "saved" rounds is what you have when you did not fire all your rounds. It may happen because you ran out of time, experienced a mechanical problem (misfire for instance), or there was a problem with your target. Not every event allows alibis and there are rules about what is allowed as an alibi.

"Reduced targets" are targets designed to be shot at one distance (100 yards for instance) but simulate a further distance (like 200 yards). These are commonly used because many ranges do not have the space for a "full course". "Full course" is another term you may hear which means that the event will be shot on a range that full sized for the event (out to 600 yards). While 600 yards might seem far to hit a target with iron sights, you have to realize that the 600 yard full target is about the size of a barn door. To your eye, it does not matter whether you are shooting at reduced targets or the full distance; it does matter to the bullet though.

There are two general classifications of targets: fixed and movable. Fixed targets stay visible all the time and your shots are not marked until everyone is done. With movable targets, a crew operates the mechanism to show the targets and withdraw them when the time period is over or they are due to be scored. During slow fire, the target is marked after each shot and the score is shown by placing a marker around the edge of the target itself. The score is shown by placing a marker around the edge of the target as follows:

6 miss 7

5 (rings) 8

X 10 9

For rapid fire, the target is pulled down after the time limit expires, markers are placed in each bullet hole, and a summary of the hits is shown on the side. Most shooters get to spend a turn in the "pits" (below ground area where the mechanism resides) controlling the target. You want to do the best job possible because the shooter you "pull targets" for will be pulling targets for you. Another term for this is doing your "pit duty". You can avoid pit duty under limited circumstances (physical disability, getting someone else to do it for you, or being a top level shooter).

"Zero" has two meanings: the score you get if you miss the target and the base setting for your rifle. You want to know the zero for your rifle for the distance and bullets you are shooting. It is just the jargon for the proper still weather sight setting.

"MOA" stands for Minute of Angle, roughly one inch at 100 yards. Sights are usually calibrated in terms of MOA (or fractions of MOA).

Another term you will hear is "reading the wind". That is what you do when you determine the wind speed and direction by looking at the trees, range flags, your own flag, or wind gauge to determine the wind speed and direction. You use that information to adjust your sight settings to counteract the wind's effect on your bullet.

"Match Bulletin" is the document that describes the course of fire, special rules, times, dates, location, costs, etc. If at all possible, read this before you go, it is embarrassing to arrive half way through the shoot (unless you plan to just watch).

Finally, the last set of terminology revolves around "classification". Classification is the level of proficiency you have reached in a particular event. Classification is used to group shooters (the top level folks typically get to shoot first and may avoid pit duty – acting as scorers and coaches instead) and provide a mechanism to award prizes within a proficiency level. A classification in one area (high power rifle for instance) does not carry over to another (action pistol). The classification levels and score percentages are as follows:

NRA High Power Rifle Classification Percentage Scores

Classification Low High

High Master 97% 100%

Master 94% 96.99%

Expert 89% 93.99%

Sharp Shooter 84% 88.99%

Marksman 0% 83.99%

Other shooting sports have their own classification systems (different percentages). The CMP follows the NRA system but CMP shoots do not count for NRA classification (only NRA matches do). There are a series of rules on how you get an initial classification, change classification (up or down), and how to appeal your classification. The NRA issues classification cards; you can also record your scores in a "temporary score book" which some match organizers will accept in place of the official card.

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