PLAYA MONTEPIO
Gulf coast near Catemaco: Montepio is one of several beaches strung out along perhaps 25 kilometrs of this part of the gulf of Mexico. The mountainous, tropical jungle scenery that will remind you more like those on the Pacific side of Mexico. Great place to laze away some time..
Photos Montepio.. http://travel.webshots.com/album/554896239RFqwin
Trip Report April 2006... If your a tourist, without a car and or you don't want to hire a taxi.. the biggest drawback to traveling to Montepio from Catemaco is the lack of an easy / cheap way to get there. The only other option is to pay a few pesos to ride in the rear-end of one of the small pickups, called a "pirata" (pee-ra-tah) for a hr. or so. These local "taxis" stop frequently to drop off, or pick up locals in the small pueblos located alongside the "road" between Catemaco and Montepio.
The first half of the ride was on a narrow, winding, climbing blacktop and wasn’t too bad.. The scenery is mostly jungle / forest on both sides with occasional openings that allows one a birds-eye view of the large laguna that streaches back inland from the gulf coast..
Unfortunately, the second half of this trip isn't as pleasant as the road chnanges into a combination gravel, dirt and mostly dust road.. a word of advice here, don’t bother taking a shower and putting on clean clothes before you embark on this ride..(you’ll be needing another shower and change of clothes as soon as you arrive at Montepio)
Once you arrive at Montepio there are a number of places selling food and beverages.. If you wish to use their tables and chairs in the shade you must buy something to both eat and drink.. If your just looking for shade and refreshments check at the less busy ones and you’ll probably find one of them more willing to sell you just beer or refreshments.. There is a lot of beach to poke around on.. clean looking water, you may also rent a horse by he hr... Large crowds show up here on weekends and holidays, many less thru the week..
Not much variety food wise.. Good news if you like fish dinners, shrimp cocktails, or emapanadas... your in luck.. I didn’t find much else being offered.. There are a few little "tiendas" that sell the usual refrescos and cheap snacks.. Your not apt to starve to death here, but guarantee you’ll be looking forward to eating elsewhere with more options after a day or two if you stay that long..
Come dark the town dies.. if there were sidewalks, they would be rolled up promptly at sundown and put away for the night.. fortunately for the locals there are no sidewalks, so come 8 oclock or so, they just shut off the lights and go home without having to go to the trouble.. at any rate if your plans include eating a late dinner make sure you do it before then, or you may go to bed hungry!!
There is one small hotel on the beach but it tends to fill up quickly on the busy weekends.. However, just up the road a bit (but within easy walking distance) there is another hotel called Hotel San Jose and also several small cabanas for rent.. (you can also make reservation for this hotel from San Andreas in their hotel there) I have been told by others that this is a good option, but didn't have time to check it out for myself.. (damn siestas)
( some additional hotel / lodging info.. http://www.catemaco.info/s/hotel/costa.html )
This was my first visit to the area so decided to test my luck and poke around a bit before renting anything.. Lady luck was with me that day and the lady at the restaurant told me her daughter had a room for rent on the second floor of her house.. It wasn’t much, just a small bedroom and bath, but had a large second story patio with a roof and was located in about the best possible place, with a fantastic view of the whole area. Good view of night sky also.. I was more than happy to pay the 200 pesos the lady charged for it.. hammock included!! You may inquire about it at the restaurant Dona Reyna.. or if you would like to try to make reservations before arriving.. the lady that owns it is named Irma Valencio Murillo.. her tele number is 01 55 50 6021..
Pitch a tent.. There is also a campground located alongside the river with bathroom and shower facilities.. not particularly cheap option.. was told its 200 pesos a day..
One may travel to Montepio from Veracruz without passing thru Santiago, San Andres and Catemaco. It is a much quicker, easier and definitly a cleaner way to go.. Go to the second class bus station in Veracruz and take the one bus that travels here daily. It departs station about 6:30 AM everyday and travels straight to Montepio.. It returns to Veracruz about 5:30 - 6 in the afternoon.. OR go to station and catch any second class bus that runs thru the area and get off at the T-road, just a little past the small town of Angle R. Cabada (before Santiago Tuxtla) Wait for local bus that runs east towards Cinco Chorros and Nueva Victoria and the gulf coast.. (just tell bus drivers helper and he'll let you know where to get off) It is about a 1 hr. ride to get to Montepio from this point..