How to Tape Floppy Ears This is a breeder's trick to train Chi and Yorkie ears to stay up. (This is for puppy ears only. Adult ears that flop will not benefit from this.) Tear off a strip of masking tape about 6" long. Fold the edge of the tape over on itself at an angle. Continue folding the tape over on itself so that you create a triangle of tape. Tear another piece of tape about 3-4" long, depending on the size of your dog's ear. You can also use vet wrap for this. Place the triangle on the inside of the dog's ear with the one point of the triangle pointing up, matching the point of the ear. Make sure it doesn't go into the ear canal. Place it low enough, however, so the top of the ear will not be top heavy. Take the other tape strip and wrap it around the ear, attaching the first end of the strip to the tape triangle. Once again, wrap low enough that the ear is not top heavy. The tape should almost be sitting on the top of the head. Leave the tape in place for one week. Then unwrap the ear (mineral oil or vaseline will help the tape come loose easier). Check the ear. If it's standing up, the tape has done it's job. If not, tape the ear once again using all new tape and wait another week. Usually ears will be standing by this time, although a few stubborn ears can take 3 weeks. The dog may bat at the ear for a day, but will soon not notice the tape at all. If the tape seems to be bothersome after a day or more, check to make sure that you haven't taped too far down that tape is in the ear canal. Peso and Annie had to each have one ear taped. Peso's ear took 2 weeks. Annie's ear was stubborn and took a little over 3 weeks. You can notice in their pictures that their ears are standing straight up. It works!
Extra Calcium for Teething Dogs When your puppy is teething at around 5 months, you can add dry powdered milk to his diet. Sprinkle the powdered milk on top of his food. Chi's and Yorkies only need about 1/8 tsp. per meal. Discontinue use of powdered milk by 6 months.
Protect Your Furniture Here's an idea to save your furniture legs from teething puppies: Use either cloth diapers, kitchen towels, or an old towel cut into pieces (cut the old towel in half width-wise, then cut each piece into half length-wise). Wrap the cloth around the furniture leg. Secure with strips of masking tape (at least two strips, wrapped all the way around the cloth so that the tape sticks to itself). Viola'! Puppy proofed furniture legs. This is also good for lil' boy puppies who tinkle against furniture legs. It won't stop the behavior, but will absorb the urine before it gets to the floor. Just make sure to change the towels as soon as you notice urine stains/smells. You can spray the towels with "No!" or a similar product to discourage your male from going there again.
A Step for Little Dogs Does your little one have trouble getting on the couch or bed? Here's an inexpensive way to provide a step. Wal-mart carries "Cat Condos", cylinder shaped beds with a top and a bottom, for approximately ten dollars. They are covered in carpet. Buy one of the single hole condos, (the other size is 2 or 3 holes and are much higher). Place near your bed or couch and your pooch can jump up on top of the cat condo and onto the couch or bed. You can put a comfy blanket inside and your dog may even like the hideaway it provides. Nani likes to hide her bones in the one by my bed.
Knee problems with Chi's. If your Chi has a patella (knee cap) that is floating in the knee due to a tendon or ligament that is loose...here is a suggestion that worked for my chi, Zoe. Fill the bathtub with water and make your Chi swim. Yes, this really works. My vet was amazed when I told her about Zoe's swimming, she had recommended surgery after a round of analgesics. Swimming 5 to 15 minutes a day, three days a week for one to two months saved my Zoe from having surgery. At first your chi will resist but after a couple of times they start to enjoy the water. Remember start slowly say 2 to 5 minutes and work up to 15. Of course, make sure your vet approves before starting any physical therapy
For Dogs Who Lower Their Head When Coming to You It's a natural response for us as pet owners to pet the top of a dog's head or rub their ears when the dogs comes to us. Over time, the dog just learns to lower his head when he is in front of us. This can be cute, but a lot of times it looks as if the dog is crouching in fear. If you have a dog that does this, or to keep this from happening, always stroke the dog under his chin when he comes to you. After awhile, he'll start coming to you and raising his head for the tickle under the chin. This causes the dog to look up at you and make eye contact. It makes the dog look more "perky". In fact, a lot of Chi's don't like to be petted on the head when you are standing over them. It's kind of like a big hand reaching out of the sky, . Most dog manuals tell you to ask stangers to pet a toy dog underneath the chin also, rather than pat the head. It makes the dog less stressed when meeting someone new.
A Mini IQ Test for Your Dog Check out Fun Stuff With Your Best Friend: The Interactive Dog Book by Nancy Furstinger for more ideas. Place a towel over your dog's head. Don't talk to him or give him instructions. See how long it takes for your dog to get the towel off his head. 30 seconds or less: 3 points 31 seconds to 1 minute: 2 points Towel still on head after 1 minute: 1 point Get you dog's complete attention. Silently pick up your dog's leash and walk to the middle of the room. If your dog: Immediately runs to you or the door: 3 points You have to walk to the door before your dog comes to you: 2 points Completely ignores you: 1 point Let your dog sniff a treat, then put the treat under an empty plastic bowl. Time how long it takes your dog to get the treat. 10 seconds or less: 3 points 11 to 60 seconds: 2 points Doesn't even try: 1 point Have your dog sit across the room and in a normal tone of voice call "Rumpelstiltskin." Dog comes to you: 3 points If it doesn't come, call "rabbit". If dog comes: 2 points Still no luck, use your dog's name. If he comes to his name: 1 point Total Score 12 Genius 9 to 11 Smart 5 to 8 Average 4 Give your dog extra attention and test again in two months Chinut's note: I don't understand the concept behind # 4. Peso got 3's on all the activities except the last one. She completely ignored me until I said her name. Could it be that with so many canines in the house, she listens only for her name? (Well, that and words like "treat, food, snack, kibble, bone, cheese...").
Total Score
Chinut's note: I don't understand the concept behind # 4. Peso got 3's on all the activities except the last one. She completely ignored me until I said her name. Could it be that with so many canines in the house, she listens only for her name? (Well, that and words like "treat, food, snack, kibble, bone, cheese...").
NUTRITIONAL "TREATS" Here's an idea for giving your dog "treats" that are good for him and won't ruin his supper. Instead of buying specific treats, which are quite often high in fat and may have little nutritional value, buy a small box of dog food that is different from your dog's regular food. Give your dog the pieces of this dog food as "treats", making a fuss over them just as you would other treats. Dispense the kibbles only as treats; do not feed as a meal. Your dog will think he's getting treats, but instead you'll be feeding him nutritional food. If he has too many "treats" in a day, you can just decrease his regular food at mealtime. Your dog will still have gotten a full diet for the day. My dogs think that Peso's diet kibbles are treats, because they are not normally allowed to have them. Any dog food samples that I receive, I dispense as treats. After trying this with my dogs, I think maybe I should have raised my son this way. "You can ONLY have vegetables if you clean your plate. You're such a good boy. I'll let you have Brussel Sprouts tonight..." It might have worked.
Bathing Tips for Small Dogs Bathe your dog in the sink. It's easier on your back. Make sure you hold on to the dog at all times. Use a rubber sink mat to give some traction for your dogs feet. Your dog will feel a little more secure. Use the spray nozzle to wet and rinse your dog. Make sure it's not too hot or cold first by testing it on your forearm. The spray nozzle often is a slightly different temperature than the faucet. If your dog seems nervous when you use the spray nozzle, try lowering the water pressure so the spray is not so forceful. If using flea shampoo, first put the shampoo on the back of the dog's neck and work into a lather. When a dog is wet, fleas will make their way to the dog's face, most noticeably the eyes and nose. Putting the shampoo around the neck creates a barrier that hopefully will kill the fleas as they try to get to the face. Remember that small dogs chill easily, so shampoo quickly, but do a thorough job. Rinse until the water runs clear and then rinse once again. Any shampoo left in the coat can irritate a dog's skin. Dogs with a fuller coat may benefit from a doggy conditioner. It alleviates tangles. Conditioner also helps to rinse out any remaining shampoo. Dogs start to shake from their head on down. To keep a wet dog from shaking and getting water everywhere, hold his head still. If he starts to shake, gently grab his head. Dry thoroughly. Don't let the dog outside until thoroughly dry. If using a blow dryer, use the low or cool setting. Dogs' skin is sensitive and the high setting is usually too hot. A treat after a bath is always appreciated! Don't forget to wash your dog's bedding on the same day you give him a bath. It's no use to have a fresh smelling dog if he is going to sleep on doggy smelling bedding.
When we got Minnie at 5 wks. her nails were very long and I didn't have the nerve to clip them myself. I took her to a store to have them clipped, but knew I would prefer to do it myself. I finally found the perfect tool, the STYLESPAULTRA Deluxe Manicure & Pedicure System, it's made by HOMEDICS Body Basics. I use the sanding disk that sands her nails just right. Now I don't have to worry about cutting her with clippers. I paid $30.00 for it.
Tips for Taking Pictures of Dogs I am often asked how I get the dogs to "pose" for their pictures. My first response is "Glue!" I'm only joking, of course. We have had professional pet portraits taken twice and I learned a lot from observing the photographer. I've also found the book, How to Photograph Dogs by Kerrin Winter and Dale Churchill, to be very helpful. A few tips I would pass on are: "Sit" and "Stay" are two invaluable commands when photographing dogs. Get your dog used to the camera. Whether digital or film, bring it out often. Let your dog see it and smell it. Hold it in front of your face as you do when you take a picture. Snap the shutter so the dog gets used to the sound. Get down to your dog's level. The best shots are either looking at your dog straight on or up at an angle. Put the dog on the couch while you sit on the floor. Make weird noises. I learned this from the photographer. She had a whole range of unusual noises she made right before she clicked the shutter. The noise would cause the dog to look at her and perk its ears. I've found the higher the pitch, the better. Cluck your tongue, screech, whistle, hum... Try using favorite toys or treats to get the dog's attention. This can backfire if the dog breaks the pose to come barreling at you to get the toy or treat. Work fast! Plan to take lots of pictures to get a "keeper". When I use film, I plan on using a whole roll to get one or two good pictures. Purchasing a digital camera made things much simpler - I can snap away and then delete the views I don't like. Keep the camera close at hand so that you can capture those "cute" moments. This also includes keeping it loaded with film and the batteries charged. End photography sessions with a treat. My dogs have learned that if they sit still for the camera, a treat is not far behind. I think Annie is becoming a professional! Practice, practice, practice - not the dogs: YOU! One other note: Petco and Petsmart often have professional pet photographers in for a day. If you can, it can be worthwhile to watch them work for a bit to get ideas.
One other note: Petco and Petsmart often have professional pet photographers in for a day. If you can, it can be worthwhile to watch them work for a bit to get ideas.
Small Items for Small Dogs Finding products small enough for Chihuahuas can be a daunting task. Here are a few ideas I've used for my little ones. Puppy Dishes: I bought "condiment" dishes. (Have you ever watched cooking shows and seen those little dishes that hold premeasured ingredients like spices? That's what these dishes look like.) They are plastic and just the right size for a small puppy portion. I've also used "salsa" dishes. They are a bit bigger, usually plastic or ceramic. I've found both of these type of containers in the kitchen gadget aisle at Wal-Mart. Small Kibble: A number of companies make extra small kibble: Science Diet, Eukanuba, Bil Jac, and Purina to name a few. The problem is: the bigger the bag, the better the value. However, keep too much kibble around and you will often get bugs in it. The solution? Divide the kibble into plastic containers and freeze it. You can reuse clean margarine or cottage cheese containers for this. Keep only enough kibble at room temperature to last for a few weeks. Allow the kibble to defost for about 24 hours before feeding it. I have found that some of my dogs enjoy the frozen kibble as a treat during hot summers. This also works with most treats. Canned Dog Food: Many Chis do not eat a whole small can at one time, or even over a few days, never mind the larger cans. Buy some of the small disposable/reuseable Ziploc or Hefty containers, divide the canned dog food between them and freeze the extra portions. Thaw for 24 hours before feeding. Treat Ball: Many dogs love to play with treat balls, but even the small size ones can be too large for the really small Chis. I found a ferret treat ball that works the same as the larger canine versions. Of course, finding small treats to fit into the ball can also be a problem. Break up dog biscuits, use small size kibble or cut up chewy treats before inserting into the treat ball. Toys: Most stuffed dog toys are made for dogs over 10 lbs. There are a few stuffed toys made for small dogs (I have links on the Terrific Toys page). Mad Dog by Hartz has some smaller size toys. Another solution is to check out the toy aisle. Look for securely sewn seams, sewn eyes and other features (or remove them before giving to your dog) and fiber-filling. Do NOT use "beanie-type" toys that are filled with pellets. These can be extremely dangerous if your dog manages to chew a hole in the toy. I prefer to stick with toys developed for canines. Also, many tiny dogs really enjoy playing with a large toy (or cuddling up to it).
Small Items for Small Dogs - Continued Beds: There are ferret "cuddler" beds in two sizes. One great thing about these beds is that they are completely covered with fabric - no foam is accessible. This is especially nice for dogs that like to chew foam. The cat aisle may also offer some beds that are appropriate. My dogs like to crawl into "igloo" type beds. The round soft sided cat beds are also popular with many Chis. Bedding: Baby blankets make great bedding. My dogs like the fleece blankets the best. I have found these for clearance prices in the Spring at stores like Target and Wal-Mart or at garage sales. Pillows: Does your dog like to sleep on a pillow? Look for travel or camping pillows, which are much smaller that standard pillows. You can also buy throw pillows to match your decor. Watch out for braid or fringe if your dog is drawn to chewing on these items. Also consider the material: will small toenails get caught in loosely woven fabric? If you can sew a straight seam, it's easy to make your dog a pillow from fake sheepskin. Fill with fiber-fill or craft-form pillows.
Introducing a New Chi to the Other(s) in Your Home When bringing a new Chi (or any dog) into your home for the first time, it's important to introduce the newcomer in a way that the current household dogs won't be threatened. Here's the method I always use. It's best to have someone else around to help you with the introduction process. Also, have lots of small treats easily accessible to you. Try to introduce the dogs on neutral territory. This can be at a friend's house, or in a room in your own house that your current dog is not allowed in. Take the newcomer into the area where you will perform the introduction. Sit on the floor, hold and pet the new dog for a few minutes, perhaps offering a treat. When the newcomer is calm, bring in the other dog. If you have more than one dog, I recommend bringing them in one at a time. As the current dog is brought in, completely IGNORE the new dog. Offer your current pet a treat. If your dog sniffs the new dog, PRAISE your pet. Give your pet some petting. Each time your pet sniffs the newcomer, praise and give a treat. You are trying to associate the newcomer with good things (treats) and also let your dog know that his/her position in the household is NOT threatened. You are still the alpha and your pet is the next in line. Your current pet may not want to come near at first. That's okay. Keep offering your dog a treat, while ignoring the newcomer as much as possible. If your current pet loses interest after a brief time, consider it a good sign. Your dog is not feeling threatened. If you currently have multiple dogs, take the first one out and bring in the second. Perform the same ritual. Continue to bring each dog in separately until all have been introduced. For the first week or so, it's best to keep the new dog in a wire kennel or exercise pen whenever you are not actively observing the dogs. This lets the dogs see and smell each other, but protects the newcomer from any attacks (especially important in the case of a puppy). Always continue to feed, pet, play or offer treats to the older dogs first, in whatever order you have normally done so. The newcomer ALWAYS goes last. This may seem cruel, but in the canine world, it is how a newcomer to a pack would be treated. I know, it can be hard on you, too, because you may want to play with a new puppy. Believe me, a little patience can go a long way in preventing problems later. Once the dogs are comfortable with each other, you can let the dogs have more access to each other to play. Stay close by to supervise. If the new dog is still a puppy, be even more vigilant. Many older dogs seem to realize that they should play more carefully with a puppy. When I introduced Zach, he and Annie took to each other right away. Nani took about three weeks to warm up to him. It was about six weeks before Pica would let him sit on the same lap that she was sitting on. Now they even play together sometimes.
This information was provided by Tikiluvr. Tips for Socialization Have all new people ignore the dog; do not let them look at her ( which could be seen as a threat by her). Don't let them try to touch her, reach for her, or pick her up, unless it's OBVIOUS that she would be OK with that. If she dislikes someone, strongly, have the person ignore and act like she isn't there. Ask them to talk softly to you and avoid looking at her and just pretend they can't see her. Once she starts coming around to see what the person is all about, have them drop a cookie (treat), still without looking at her or reaching for her. The other person should just drop the cookie when she comes close to them. Have them do this a few times and after 4 or 5 times, have the person put their hand down very low with a treat in it and still avoid looking at her and pretend she isn't there. Just put the treat in their hand and put the hand where the dog can get it. Keep doing this until the dog seems to calm down and is no longer fearful or angry. If the dog keeps getting closer eventually have the person try looking at her for a brief time and talking very calmly to her. See how she responds to that. Still do not allow the person to reach for or make any movements or use any loud tones that might be threatening to the dog. After a while she will calm down and after a few meetings like this she will start to think of new people as cookie machines and will be a lot less scared. It takes a lot of time and a lot of patience.
Protecting the foam pads in dog beds... Crate foam pads are often orthopedic foam covered with a zippered cover of fleece or material. It's easy to take off the cover and wash it, but sometimes a dog will have an accident and the foam will become soaked. It's hard to clean the foam and it takes days to dry. I protect the foam on my dogs' crate pads with a vinyl standard size pillow cover. Then I put the material cover back over the vinyl covering. The standard pillow size works well for crates in the 17, 18, 19, 20" x 20, 21,22,23,24" crate size. Sure saves a lot of hassle if the dog gets sick or makes a boo-boo.
Here's another way to help those stubborn ears stand. You can find these at your local drug store. Band-aid, LiquidBand-aid Breathe Right Nasal Strips, Clear (only) and Large Size Using the clear nasal strip only because the flesh colored won't work for some reason; 1. Before removing paper backing, trim clear nasal strip to fit to the inside of dogs ear flap from slightly below bend to 1/3" below tip. Trim the "wings" off one end and round that end for comfort. 2. Apply a thin layer of liquid band-aid according to it's package directions, in the approximate shape of the trimmed nasal strip, on the inside of the flopped ear. 3. Remove backing from clear nasal strip, position and adhere to liquid band-aid area so the ear is erect. Hold for 5 seconds. It should stay in place for 3-5 days. Pull GENTLY to remove. Redo with a new nasal strip as needed for flopped ears. The photo only shows the trim shape and approximate position. I wasn't able to show an actual application at this time. Be careful to not catch the odd ear hair and the pup won't even know it's there and his litter mates won't notice either. My dog wore his for 10 days total and even though his best bud would lick the inside of his ears, she never messed with it or dislodged it. And after removing you don't need an adhesive remover because the remaining adhesive wears off easily.
Nail Clipping Nail clipping gets easier the more practice you have, but those with multiple dogs get much more opportunity to practice than those with only one or two. I always say that training is ongoing. The same applies to leaning to clip nails. I can do it by myself, but I prefer to have Jerry hold the dogs while I clip. At this age, I also have to wear my reading glasses to be able to see the quick. I wear old clothes and a canvas apron in case I get blood. I've found that if I do get blood, it's good to change aprons, because the following dogs can smell the blood and with their scent capabilities, I'm sure any they can pick up on any fear scent from the previous dog. Watching Cesar Milan (The Dog Whisperer) has taught me a few things that have really helped. The first is to have that "calm energy" the he talks about. Jerry and I now make it a point to appear normal, just the same as when we're picking up a dog to pet it. If a dog gets really nervous while clipping, we take a moment to do some relaxing deep breathing ourselves and give the dog a little time to calm down. Another thing I've learned from watching Cesar is that some dogs do better if their head is covered. I'd recommend a linen kitchen towel because I fear that anything heavier could interfere with breathing if the dog gets panicked. We tried this on all the dogs and have ended up always using it on three of them. Pica has always been a nipper. I used to use a very small muzzle on her, which she hated. Covering her head has allowed us to forego the muzzle. Not being able to see it coming seems to help some of the dogs. I can relate, because I have to look away when I get my blood drawn, lol, which as a diabetic happens a lot. (continued in next tip because MSN didn't allow enough room in one box.)
Nail Clipping Continued - 2 I gather all my supplies first: clippers, clotting agent, head covering for the dogs, treats, styptic gel, tissues and wipes (we do anals at the end of clipping). I put my hair up so I don't have to worry about wiping stray hairs out of my face while working on the dogs. Just another thing to keep ME more calm. We wear old clothes and I wear an additional canvas apron in case of blood. I've found that if I get blood on me from a very nervous dog, it helps to change aprons. I'm sure with dogs superior scent capabilities, they can smell the blood and scent of fear from a previous dog. Jerry calmly picks up a dog and brings it to me. We clip nails outside because there's no cleanup and we have good weather year round. Otherwise, we do it in a small bathroom with the door closed because it's easier to contain and then clean up the clippings. I never clip nails during a thunderstorm or some other stressful time. Clipping is stressful enough for some of the dogs. I pick up a paw and massage it for a bit. Then I bring the clippers close and snip them in the air a few times. Then I go in for the kill, I mean clip. I realized that as I did so, I was pressing harder on the paw and the dog would react by pulling back the paw. I now try to not press any harder on the paw and it's become easier to clip. Also, holding the dog in such a way that you are holding the knee helps keep a dog from pulling back it's leg. I've always given treats after clipping, but lately I've been giving treats between the first set of two paws and then again after the last set. Annie is our most difficult dog and she won't take a treat until we have set her on the ground. This break for a treat has helped as it gives the dog a chance to relax and we relax a bit. You can bet this really has helped with Peso! (continued in third tip)
Nail Clipping Continued -3 I do accidentally cut a few quicks each time, especially on the black dogs as they have black nails. I've found that gel styptic works faster and better than the powder or infused pads. I use a product called Super Clot. It comes in a syringe type container. I buy it at Petco. If I hit a quick, I put a dab of the gel on my finger and press it against the nail. It works almost instantly, whereas, the powder or the pads required a few minutes of holding the application against the nail. (I've also read about and tried a home remedy of holding a wet teabag against the nail. It works, but you have to hold it there quite a long time.) If a dog is anxious after the clipping, Jerry holds the dog and pets it for awhile. We don't want to put a dog on the ground when it's nervous because we don't want them to associate making a fuss and getting let go. Nani likes to hang around and harrass the other dogs as they get clipped. (She also likes to eat the clippings. Why, I don't know.) Sometimes we have to put Nani behind one of the gates so she doesn't harrass the others. Of course, Peso is her favorite dog to harrass. (continued in fourth tip)
Nail Clipping Continued - 4 Clipping can get pretty hairy, literally. Dogs have the ability of releasing fur when they are scared. That's another reason we do it outside. We do one dog after another and the later dogs do realize what is going on. They tend to hide, so we shut all doors so they can't hide all over the house. Some of them try to hide outside. Peso likes to lie behind this small tree, thinking she's hiding. Poor girl doesn't realize she's bigger than the width of the tree trunk, lol. I once found Nani in the flower bed, underneath the plants. Most vets will show you how to clip nails if you ask. Groomers will usually show you also, but some won't because it will take business away from them. I hope this gives you some more information and confidence in trying to clip nails. Remember the three "P"s. Patience, Practice and Persistance. You can learn to clip nails, but it does require some time to learn. Good luck!
