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| Now to Connect Everything First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit each corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of wire that you get from using the clip leads to make connections. After each connection gently tack away the excess wire. |
| 1. | Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047) together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip. |
| 2. |  | Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor by pin 7. |
| 3. | Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the 1 K-Ohm resistor attached to pin 8. |
| 4. | Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch, and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole and the other hook around the whole connection. Check to make sure they are securely connected.) |
| 5. | Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other 1 K-Ohm resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt. |
| 6. | Twist the free end of the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor around the plus end of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip. |
| 7. | Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip. |
| 8. | Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts. Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the other bolt and handhold |
| 9. | Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip. |
| 10. | Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free end of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position, you must double-check all of your connections, and make sure you have a fresh battery. |
| 11. | Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a couple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut. |
| 12. | Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before using. Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap. I have not detected the copper in the handholds penetrating the skin. Perhaps this is due to the high frequency circuit used. Non copper handholds are now available from commercial providers. |
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| • | Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds. Any electronics shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz. |
| • | Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an oscilloscope. It should be about 7 to 8 volts. |
| • | Optional: measure the current that flows through you when you are getting zapped. You will need a 1 K-Ohm resistor and oscilloscope. Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to one end of the resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor to a handhold. (Adding this resistor to the circuit decreases the current slightly, but not significantly.) The other handhold is attached to the other bolt. Connect the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor. Connect the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on the scope. It will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by dividing voltage by resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 K-Ohm is 3.5 ma (milliamperes). |
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| Testing The Zapper Trying the zapper on an illness to see "if it works" is not useful. Your symptoms may be due to a non-parasite. Or you may reinfect within hours of zapping. The best way to test your device is to find a few invaders that you currently have with the Syncrometer. This gives you a starting point. Then zap yourself. After the triple zapping, none of these invaders should be present. |
