One look at the names of its ancient cities confirms Turkey's place in the history of human civilization: Constantinople (Byzantium), Troy, Midas, Antioch, Philadelphia, Halicarnassus, Mt. Ararat. The land has a rich and complicated history -- and the "Turks" have only been there for about a thousand years!

Also known as Anatolia and Asia Minor, Turkey was settled as early as 7000 BC, but historians don't really know much about the people who lived there until the Hittites arrived around 2000 BC. The Hittites managed to control a good portion of Anatolia, but their rule was interrupted and overthrown by a succession of smaller states, including the Phrygians, the Lydians and Lycians. Eventually, the great empires of Greece and Persia showed up, too, followed by the Romans

Constantinople (formerly Byzantium and later Istanbul) was founded in the 4th century AD. It soon came to rival Rome as the seat of the Christian world, and the city flourished in this position for hundreds of years. Not until the formal split between Roman Catholicism and Eastern Orthodoxy (AD 1054) and the arrival of the Selcuks (Turks) in the late 11th century did the city begin to lose its luster.

Until this point most of Turkey's rulers had come from the west, but that changed with the arrival of the Selcuks, descended from the Turkish people of East Asia. They had a different language and religion (Islam). Various groups of Turks had been making their way westward for centuries, but the Selcuks were the first to dominate central Anatolia. They were soon followed by the Mongols and then the Ottomans, who arrived in the region around AD 1300. The Ottomans ultimately created a new empire, taking Constantinople in 1453 and spreading their rule through much of Europe, the Middle East and North Africa.

The Ottoman Empire slowly crumbled over two centuries, finally expiring at the end of World War I. Into the void stepped Mustafa Kemal, later known as Ataturk. A hero at the battle of Gallipoli, Ataturk drove out the Greeks and other peoples who had been awarded parts of the old empire after World War I. In doing so, he established the country's modern borders and renamed it "Turkey." A secular, democratic government was established, with Ataturk as the first president. Ataturk moved the capital to Ankara.

Modern Turkey sits uncomfortably betwen two worlds. It is more developed, more Western, more secular than most of its neighbors to the East. (It has been a member of NATO since 1952.) But democracy and secular government have never really taken root as they have in most of Europe. In southeastern Turkey, a disruptive -- sometimes violent -- Kurdish population has been fighting for autonomy for decades. Their petitions have been ignored and often oppressed by the Turkish government. Earthquakes and runaway inflation have also hindered Turkey's progress.

Capital City: Ankara

Passport/Visa U.S.: Passports, visas and proof of onward passage are needed by citizens of Canada and the U.S. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 66,493,970

Religion: Islamic (Sunni), though many other sects and religions are represented.

Telephone Codes: 90, country code

Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October

Tipping Overview: Do tip about 10% in expensive restaurants, even if a service charge has already been added.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts

Ataturk International Airport (IST) is 15 mi/24 km southwest of Istanbul (allow plenty of time to get to the airport during rush hour). Turkish Airlines offers frequent domestic flights to major cities within Turkey.

Various cruise lines include Turkish ports on their Mediterranean itineraries. Turkish Maritime Lines connects major ports along the Aegean, Black Sea and Mediterranean coasts -- it takes about two days to go from Istanbul along the Black Sea to Trabzon via Sinop -- very enjoyable.

There is rail service connecting most European countries to Istanbul, and there's also rail service within Turkey (it's usually slower than bus service). Express bus service connects many European capitals and large cities with Istanbul on a regular (and fairly inexpensive) basis. Inexpensive buses and minibuses connect most points within the country (the former are quite comfortable, and the latter provide an opportunity to meet the local people -- if you're willing to sacrifice comfort for that opportunity).

Self- and chauffeur-driven cars are also available (an excellent way to visit the country). Driving is on the right. Major highways are in good shape, but beware of slow-moving vehicles, animals and especially Turkish drivers, who don't seem to follow traffic rules. Snow and ice require extra caution. City streets are often narrow and congested with traffic. Parking in Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara is a hassle: Don't rent a car in these cities.

Taxis (shared and metered) are the best way to travel within most cities and towns. However, visitors to Ankara and Istanbul should be aware that some taxi drivers may try to cheat tourists by "forgetting" to turn on the meter (and then demanding an outrageous sum) or putting the night meter on during the day. Between 7 am and midnight always check to see that the meter reads gunduz (days). Shared taxis (dolmuses) travel on fixed routes for fixed fares. Tipping is not expected in shared taxis.

Turkish food is well seasoned and delicious -- reminiscent of what many people think of as Greek food. Menus in smaller restaurants or lokantas (taverns that serve food) are often written in Turkish only, so look around at what others are eating and point at what looks good. Rice, mutton, fish (along the coast), pine nuts, eggplant, onions and other vegetables are common ingredients. Fried, grilled and smoked foods are also common. The produce is great; sample fresh giant cherries and figs, in particular. Excellent yogurt, used in desserts or salads, is also available.

Be sure to try hunkar begendi (eggplant with beef or lamb), izgaralar (grilled lamb or beef), pide (kind of a Turkish pizza -- lahmacun was our favorite variety), the many different kinds of kebabs (especially iskender), kofte (meatballs), ic pilav (fried rice and raisins) and kuzu dolmasi (lamb and rice). You can often make a meal from the numerous appetizers offered, such as yaprak dolmasi (stuffed grape leaves), spicy midye (mussels), peynirli borek (cheese rolled up in flaky pastry) and stuffed vegetables. Many desserts are excellent: Some are milk based, while others are baklava-type pastries. Even if you think you don't like Turkish Delight, try some -- very sweet and crammed with nuts, it's a real treat.

Maden Suyu is the name for mineral water. Elma cayi (pronounced alma CHA-hy) is the ubiquitous apple tea. Bira means "beer" (Efes was our favorite brand). Turkey also produces good wine, the best being yakut, a full-bodied dry red. The local spirit is the aniseed-flavored raki (similar to Greece's ouzo), which is usually mixed with water.

Shop for handwoven rugs and kilims, Iznik tiles, leather and suede items, ceramics, silk, jewelry, alabaster, onyx, embroidery, brass samovars, meerschaum pipes and copperware and brassware. Some vendors in the markets are aggressive, so brace yourself. You'll be offered many "antiquities," but most likely they're fakes. If you do want to buy an antique or any...

... item that may be deemed a cultural artifact, make sure you can get an official permit to export it before you purchase it. Those who don't have a permit sometimes end up in jail (this is increasingly rare), but are most likely to have their treasures confiscated at customs, even when the treasures are of no real antiquity. Some travelers have reported that new pine furniture was confiscated, so always get a certificate -- Turkish officials have a great respect for stamped and signed pieces of paper.

The best time for touring is April-May and September-October, when the day temperatures are most comfortable and the least amount of rain falls. For the beach worshipper, June-September is best. Turkey is a big country, and the climate varies from region to region. The coasts are generally temperate, warm and fairly humid in summer with chilly, rainy winters. Central Anatolia has hot, dry summers and cold, rainy winters with snow. The Black Sea gets the most rain, while southeastern Turkey is very dry and very hot (100+ F/38+ C) in summer. Eastern Turkey has short summers and bitterly cold winters with lots of snow. Whenever and wherever you go, take a sweater for cool evenings.